OMG, Helvellyn via Striding Edge

April 25, 2011

8.2 miles 5h 40m 907m ascent

This was my major personal challenge of our Lake District visit and I looked forward to it with equal portions of trepidation and excitement. There had been some concern that the clouds would be covering the summits but the weather forecast at breakfast time was perfect.

We had some aching muscles from the previous day’s hike up Scafell Pike, so I felt obliged to have the full Cumbrian breakfast to fortify myself for the day’s work.

After picking up our packed lunches (no chocolate bar, but kit-kat included), it was a short walk to the car and a drive to Glenridding, where we met up with Carolyn and Colin and set off through the town.

Our route took us past Gillside campsite then along a good path beside Mires Beck heading for a minor ridge heading up to Birkhouse Moor. This was an easy climb, with little to see ahead but a gradually improving view behind us, taking in Glenridding and Ullswater. I had a picture of me on this path about 20 years ago, in very different weather (wet, misty and cold) and managed, by chance, to get a repeat photo in much the same spot.

Once over the summit of Birkhouse Moor, our challenge was in sight, Helvellyn showing us its massive north-eastern cliffs framed by Striding Edge and Swirral Edge. A few metres further on and Red Tarn was added to the picture.

At Striding edge the team split into ridge walkers and path walkers, me with the latter. I found the path pretty daunting at times especially the places where it crumbled away into a the very steep drop and required scrambling over rocks above the path to escape the drop. I wonder in retrospect whether the top of the ridge might have been safer.

My real trouble came as I approached the rock chimney. The path here splits into a variety of less distinct routes. The one I should have taken crosses to the opposite side of the ridge and descends pretty steeply. I decided to stick to the summit of the ridge but met up with my quicker comrades who were heading back to find another way down having looked at the scramble down the chimney. I followed Andy down the southern slope to get back to the path and this was quite a scramble in itself. What’s more, the path itself was narrow, made of slipping stones and in places absent altogether where it had fallen away.

This path took us lower than I would have liked and presented us with a final steep scramble over unpleasantly stoney ground that often shifted underfoot. Then it was all over, we were on Helvellyn. Unfortunately, Striding Edge had taken my appetite away so as the others chomped through their sandwiches I made do with two fingers of kit-kat, waiting for the Elvis legs to settle.

Well, that was Striding Edge done. I can well understand how people can come to grief there. I don’t think I’ll be doing it again soon. How did I feel about it?

I was unable to convince the party to visit Little Man, and had I been doing this walk alone I would not have returned by Swirral Edge, but that was the team’s route so along I went. Perhaps I shouldn’t have looked up the recent deaths before doing the walk. Then I wouldn’t have known that there have been more deaths recently falling from Swirral rather than Striding Edge.

Swirral Edge didn’t seem too bad, a bit of scrambling at first then a wide easy path. I can see though how one could come a cropper if not careful. The path later splits with the larger fork heading down to Red Tarn. We headed up the pyramidal Catstye Cam, which is a pretty lofty hill in its own right, with a brief pause for photos at the summit. From there our path back to Glenridding was laid out before us. I wondered if the path down the other side of Catstye Cam would be too steep, but with the help of a walking pole it was none too bad.

Once back to the path it was a mere stroll back to Glenridding. We followed Red Tarn Beck, then Glenridding Beck where we crossed a wee bridge armed with a super-powered spring loaded gate that almost finished off Carolyn.

Once into the village we took some liquid refreshments at the Travellers Rest (no apostrophe) and since my appetite had returned I was able to polish off the sarnies.

A very good walk in excellent weather and a personal challenge completed without injury. And the icing on the cake: pie, chips, mushy peas and gravy at the Keswickian that evening.

Wainwrights: Birkhouse Moor, Helvellyn, Catsye Cam
Walkers: Mike, Andy, David, Elaine, Carolyn, Colin.

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Stepping stones on Scafell Pike

April 24, 2011

11 miles 7h 20m 1007m ascent

Seathwaite farm car parks were full but with a little backtracking we found a spot, got kitted up and set off. The path passes through the farm and heads up alongside a rather weedy stream (the young River Derwent). At this stage we appeared to be on a path so crowded that I was half expecting to be queuing to get through any narrow bits.

The first staging point was Stockley Bridge. This stone bridge wouldn’t have looked out of place in Hobbiton. There were some inviting pools of turquoise water and we wondered about dipping our feet on the way back. The colour of this water was seen in many streams and pools on the way up and must have been due to the rocks I presume.

At the bridge we had the choice of following Grains Gill or climbing more steeply around Seathwaite Fell to Styhead. I thought it was six of one and half a dozen of the other, but having completed the walk I think our choice of the Styhead route was the right one.

The path was steep, not enough to erase smiles but walking up in the bright sunlight did force me to roll up my trousers. For some reason this gave me a strong desire to wear a knotted hanky, presumably a genetic thing related to my northern roots. Luckily I was sans hanky but still felt like the bloke off Monty Python’s. Better comfortable than fashionable though, eh?

The path took us past Taylorgill Force, with more turquoise pools by which time the person density had noticeably reduced. Where had they all gone?

As we turned more westwards the Scafell pikes came into view, framed between Great Gable, Seathwaite Fell and a deep blue sky. The easiest path was often in the stream bed of Styhead Gill which was relatively empty. The path crosses the gill on a narrow footbridge that presumes walker’s BMIs are less than 30. The gill was pretty empty though and though the bridge wasn’t absolutely necessary, everyone used it.

Styhead Tarn was only a few hundred metres further on. A beautiful spot. The Tarn stands at a crossing of paths, the one we had followed along Styhead Tarn, those to Esk Hause, Wasdale, Great Gable and the Corridor route. Our interest was caught by the mountain rescue stretcher box and we were drawn towards it like moths to a flame. In doing so we failed to notice the path off to the left that we should have taken. Luckily once we were past the box our minds cleared and we could see where we should have been. It was as though the stretcher box had enchanted us. Perhaps it’s a magic box. I see that Wainwright mentions it is easy to miss the path where we did.

The corridor route was visible climbing up the western slopes of Great End and Broad Crag to Lingmell Col. The path was easy to follow and even had steps built in places. There was a brief scramble at Skew Gill but nothing to dent the spirits.

At Lingmell col we eyed up Scafell Pike and Lingmell. It was decided that lunch should be taken on Lingmell since it looked less crowded than the Pike. The views from Lingmell were impressive: Wast Water, Seascale, the Isle of Man, the Gables, the Scafell hills, Styhead Tarn, Derwent Water and a Navy Sea King. The path up Scafell Pike looked well defined, and busy.

We walked down Lingmell’s scree like path, across the grass of Lingmell col and then started up the Pike’s rocky path amidst the many other walkers of all ages and sizes, with their varying appropriateness of attire and numerous dogs. Yes, everyone and his dog was climbing the Pike that day.

Scafell Pike’s summit is rock covered with a large war memorial where we climbed for our photos. Not surprisingly the views were again impressive. Sca Fell was invitingly close and the gully to Foxes Tarn easily seen, but it will have to wait for another day, probably to be approached from the south.

After chatting with some folk on the summit we headed off towards Broad Crag. Because the summit is covered in rocks and boulders there is no obvious track and the cairn marking the way is difficult to spot, what with it being a small pile of rocks amidst a mountain top full of similar rocks. After a wee scramble we were heading along the ridge past Broad Crag, stepping from one large boulder to the next. I’m pleased we were doing this in dry weather and could trust our feet not to slip. This would have been much slower going in the wet.

After Broad Crag the boulder field ends and the ridge beside Ill Crag is littered with small cairns to guide walkers. Great End was only a short diversion, so how could we say no? Unfortunately, Andy started to get pain in his thighs during this climb, but with a bit of stretching was able to make it.

Great End does offer good views including a look back over the Scafell ridge, Esk Pike and Bowfell. And what’s more, from there it was all downhill.

As we walked down towards Esk Hause I became aware that my bladder had passed into the uncomfortable stage where the sound of running water is no longer a joy. This coincided with an increase in the numbers of walkers on the path and a complete lack of hiding places. I wonder if there should be some generally recognised signal when attending to the call of nature, perhaps a raised walking pole, or the singing of a particular song, that warns folk off.

Springing Tarn could be seen from the Hause and we walke towards it then turned right alongside Ruddy Gill. The path down from there was easy enough and in good nick. A small bridge took us across Ruddy Gill just before it joined Grains Gill. We followed this stream down to Stockley Bridge to join the path by the River Derwent back to the car.

A great walk with three Wainwrights and we couldn’t have asked for better weather.

Wainwrights: Lingmell, Scafell Pike, Great End

Walking:
David: Point man and navigator
Elaine: Dispenser of morale boosters, alternate point man Andy: Wisecracks, occasional rearguard
Mike: Rearguard and speed limiter

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Rehabilitation on Glen Hill

April 16, 2011

The crutches had been returned. The limp was fading. I didn’t think I could yet run or attempt a penalty kick but I was only 3 minutes slower than usual on the Georgetown circuit.

It was time to try my leg on a wee hill.

When last I visited the Waterloo monument, my children were little angels, I had some non-grey hair and the path was shaded by trees all the way to the summit. All the trees are now gone. So where once I would have seen only stones and trunks there is now a view of the Solway, Loch Kindar, New Abbey and Criffel. The steep climb seems to have become steeper than it was a decade ago.

Once at the top I felt obliged to climb the additional 65 feet of the tower itself. The lack of a parapet at the top had me hanging on like a scaredy-cat as usual, but the views were good (see gallery).

The tower’s inscription reads:

Erected AD 1816
To record the valour.
Of those British, Belgian
And Prufsian soldiers:
Who under
WELLINGTON and BLUCHER
On the 18th of June 1815:
Gained the victory
Of
WATERLOO:
By which, French Tyranny
Was overthrown:
And Peace restored.
To the World.

Now I remember there used to be a sign pointing out the alternative path down. No sign now. The only candidate path was heading off in the wrong direction. Then I spotted a stump of wood about 18 inches high and thought it might be all that remains of the old sign. I set off that way and, lo and behold, a path appeared. Well, there were footprints…at first.

As faint paths do, this one faded out and I found myself stumbling over piles of rotting wood and weaving through unpleasant undergrowth. I suppose is was a good test of the leg though.

I could hear running water and my heart sank at the thought of trying to get across New Abbey Pow. Luckily my navigation was a bit out and I was well short of the pow. I found a wee burn that could easily have been crossed. Even better though, there was a well trodden path running alongside it which led me back to the village.

On the lower reaches there were plenty of lambs and calves about, reflecting the time of year. There were ducks on the pond and even a field of bulls. Spring is here.

2.75 miles 204m ascent (including tower) 1h 2m

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Threave’s drumlin swarm

March 13, 2011

5 miles 1h 45m ascent 76m

Overcast, and unexpectedly dry. This easy stroll meandered around several wee hills that are part of a drumlin swarm near Castle Douglas. A new looking, or perhaps just well maintained track towards Threave Castle, and the first drumlin, Port Hill. Unfortunately the ferry was not in use so we had to gaze across the River Dee to see the Castle.

There has apparently been a castle on the site since about 1000 AD, but the original was destroyed by Edward Bruce, brother of Robert, in 1308. Archibald the Grim, Lord of Galloway, built the present castle in the 1370’s. He was given his title and made Warden of the Western Marches in return for his efforts to purge Scotland of the English. He led many raids against the English and gained the epithets grim, or black, because of his “terrible countenance” in battle.

After the castle we came to an osprey viewing point. There were no ospreys to see but there were a couple of nests visible in the trees across the river. I have no idea if these belonged to the ospreys. Perhaps we should start taking our binoculars along on walks.

From here the path leads away fro the river and along the side of our second drumlin, Meikle Wood Hill. This gave some good views across to Threave island, with the castle, and Lodge Island further south. From here we rejoined the path back to the car park and set off on the Threave estate walk, which is marked by red arrows and sometimes yellow hoops.

At a cattle grid we turned right onto the disused Castle Douglas to Kirkcudbright railway line. This carried trains from 1861 until 1965 (B the D). Andy, our local expert, let us down by not remembering trains on this section of the track. “I was only three”. What kind of excuse is that?

The railway line took us under a couple of stone bridges and over a stone and iron affair onto Lamb Island and its hide for birdwatchers. Who decided to put those windows so low? We then retraced our steps to a minor road, turned right and crossed the A75 on a small bridge. This led us around our next drumlin, Brownie Hill, across a minor road (with a sign admonishing us to take care on the “busy road”) and over another, unnamed drumlin to the Old Military road.

This military road was built in the 1760s, under the command of Major Caulfield, to aid troop movements to Ireland. We followed it only a short distance to Hightae Cottage where we turned north along a path which led to some holiday cottages, the Old Exchange, which includes a converted telephone exchange.

The path then led along a bank for about 50m before crossing the B736, passing through some “farmland mud” then over the A75 again. This had us at our last drumlin, Barley Hill, which we walked around to rejoin the old railway. From there it was back to the car park then on to Castle Douglas for refreshments.

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What Roman Fort?

February 27, 2011

9.1 miles 720m ascent 3h 43m 2 Donalds

The first dry weekend for a while, so we decided to make the most of it. Rendezvous at the forgettable lay-by between Holywood and Auldgirth then off to Dusrisdeer in sunshine, under blue skies.

Durisdeer is a peaceful, pleasantly appointed village in the middle of nowhere. It lacks only one thing according to David: a pub. I noticed that it also lacked: shops, bus stop, petrol station, tea room/coffee shop and duck pond. It was once, however, on the main route from Edinburgh to Whithorn and would have seen Kings and Queens of Scotland passing through on pilgrimage. In more modern times, it was a location in the 1978 film the Thirty-nine steps.

We set off down and past the cemetery and had about half a mile of relatively flat walking before the real work started. At a sheep pen, filled with dark brown semi-formed slurry, the path forks. We scoffed at the gentle slope and headed up the steeper path, climbing Farthing Rig. Much height was gained in short order, and as we climbed higher, the Lowther Hills, Drumlanrig and Thornhill came into view.

The path eased a little as it passed close by Scaw’d Law, which had a light dusting of snow. This gave us our first view of Wedder Law as the warmth of Durisdeer was replaced by a bitingly cold wind. (I do like a cold wind on a hill.)

We also saw that a further 150m climb up Wedder lay ahead, but once up there we had great views of the Solway, Moffat Hills and the nearby Queensberry with its neighbours Gana and Earncraig. The summit of Wedder Law is not marked but I had read it was marked by a lone fence post, so we headed for that across some extremely springy moss covered in places with ice/snow. From the fence post we saw an even higher area so headed there for our photo opportunity.

It was decided, using democratic means, that we should leave Gana Hill for another day. Our next decision was to follow the boundary fence to Scaw’d Law or retrace our steps along the track. The distance and climb looked about the same but the ground near the fence was an unknown factor whereas the track was firm. So we walked back down the track to the bothy that had seen better days and up towards Scaw’d Law. There we followed a quad bike track up to the wall at the county boundary. This wall is made of quite small flat rocks quite unlike most of the dry stone walls in D&G.

We then followed the wall across Scaw’d Law, Little Scaw’d Law and Durisdeer Hill, across slightly wet but passable ground. The other Donalds, Ballancleuch Law and Roger Law were to our right.

The way down from Durisdeer hill to the Wald Path was steep but Andy managed to sniff out a path down. Well Hill lay ahead of us, and the path up did look challenging (steep). The democratic method seemed to fail here. Having said I would rather leave it for another day it seemed everyone else was able to claim they wanted to head up it, but in deference to my lack of effort would give it a miss.

I don’t know why the path from Durisdeer to Troloss March is called the Wald path. In fact until I saw the signs I had thought it was the Well path. Wald is an old word for a forest but can apparently mean a once wooded area and is often applied to rolling uplands.

The views walking down the Wald path are impressive. Well Hill, Penbane and Black hill are steep sided grass covered hills and were looking their best bathed in sunshine.

About a mile from Durisdeer is the remains of a roman fort (or a fortlet according to the signs and OS). It is set on the lower slopes of Penbane and is well positioned to cover the path through the valley. I had fallen behind the main group at this point, having stopped to take some photos, and came upon them pointing at the fort while Andy asked “a fort, where?” Should have gone to specsavers.

I had hoped to have a look inside Durisdeer church, but the doors were all locked. The graveyard was mostly covered in snowdrops but the photo doesn’t really capture the moment.

I imagine we will be back to walk the hills to the west of the Wald path.

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Lowthers in White and Green

February 6, 2011

7.31 miles 2h 45m 531m ascent

Wanlockhead nestled in the green-brown mist covered hills smothered in drizzle. We swaddled ourselves in waterproofs, spied the southern upland way sign and set off up the track.

The rain gradually changed to sleet and then to snow. The ground from green to white. The SUW track crosses a road several times and as we climbed higher the road became white with accumulating snow. Initially thin enough to allow the white road markings to show through but soon hiding them completely. By the time we reached the summit of Lowther with its golf-ball radar we were in a winter wonderland.

Road to Lowther

The road from Lowther to Green Lowther is in the picture above.

This walk has well defined paths. The SUW joins the vehicle track to Lowther’s radar station which then goes on to Green Lowther. Sadly the visibility was poor, so we might need to return on a day with blue skies.

We retraced our steps to Lowther, ours being the only footprints in the snow. On the way back down from Lowther, a small track leads off across a col and up to Auchenlone (East Mount Lowther). Auchenlone has a viewpoint marker at its summit pointing to various hills but they were all hidden in mist.

It would be a good walk for the Summer.

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Brass Monkeys on Hart Fell

December 5, 2010

7.2 miles 685m ascent 3h 37m

Blue skies….Hart Fell beckoned. The old Edinburgh road was passable and we parked at the community hut near Newton. Once past the first kissing gate we found what was in store for us; 6 inch deep snow.

Before us we could see Well Rig, our first challenge and walking in the snow was tough. Ball-breaking was the phrase that kept passing through my mind, but in retrospect that is a little over dramatic. But I certainly warmed up pretty smartish and wished I had trained by stepping through old tyres like you see them doing in military training in films.

After the fifth kissing gate we turned left and started up steeper slopes making our way onto Well Rig with many false horizons. You know the drill. You look up and see the top, thinking that you’ll press on and rest when you get there. But once you are there, it turns out you are not quite there yet. Good practice at kicking steps in the snow anyway.

Once up onto the wee ridge of Well Rig we could see the long walk up to Arthur’s seat and Hart Fell beyond it. There were some footprints to follow at first but they turned off part way up. So from about halfway up we were in virgin snow and it did became a little less deep towards the top.

The wind picked up here and was bitterly cold. Despite pulling down my woolly hat and tightening my hood, there was a small part of my face exposed to the wind and this became numb. I was forced to walk with my hand sheltering my face. James spilt some of his water while having a drink and it froze where it landed on his rucksack. It was COLD.

The going was slow, and though James was much faster than me it took us 2h 20m to get to the top. The views were fantastic. The Moffat hills (Swatte Fell, Carrifran Gans, Whitehope Heights, White Comb etc) were all clothed in white. The Lowther Hills were very clear and even Criffel and Screel were visible. The cumbrian hills were just visible on the horizon.

The fences at the summit were covered in snow as you will see in the gallery and though these look like wooden fences covered in snow, they are in fact wire fences.

The return journey, downhill, seemed considerably easier and was quite a bit faster.

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Screel in snow

November 28, 2010

4.2 miles 1h 50m ascent 312m

I’ve read that Screel Hill may take its name from the Gaelic sgreamhail meaning disgusting or nasty. Having walked this hill several times I can only presume this is incorrect or something about the hill has changed over the years. An alternative is sgrath-eileach, turf bank or mound sounds more reasonable.

The weather forecast was for snow so we opted for a low level walk close to home and since David had missed the Screel outing in March, Screel it was. As it turned out we had excellent weather and the best visibility I’ve had on this hill.

We set off from the usual car park and up the forest track, staying on the track to make the walk a figure of eight. So we followed the track as it wound round and then climbed up the Glen of the Screel Burn. The last time we walked up here it was boggy and slightly hard going. Today the ground was frozen under a thin layer of snow, not much actual ice to slip on.

I had expected a very cold day and heated up rapidly walking up the path in sunlight. It was a little chilly on the ridge but not the biting chill I had expected.

We climbed the western end of Screel which is steep but not quite a scramble. From the summit we could see all the major hills: Cairnsmore of Fleet, Merrick and the awful hand range, the Rhinns of Kells, Cairnsmore of Carsphairn, Hart Fell and the Moffat hills, and the hills of Cumbria.

Bengairn sat just to the south, begging us to conquer it. There even seemed to be a path, albeit made for tracked vehicles that went much of the way. Another day.

We were of course able to see Almorness, and having been bitten by its accursed flora I am drawn as if by a geas to return. Another day.

It would appear however that I was tarrying a little too long to take in the views. The vanguard struck on without me.

The top of Screel is usually boggy but today the ground was solid. At the eastern end of the ridge we met a trio of paragliders who were using high tech equipment to assess the wind direction (wet fingers). The camera toting member of this trio suggested we take a different path down which was less steep and likely to be easier in the icy weather.

The downward path was the more direct way and passed through forests on pine needle covered paths. I seem to remember these being treacherous for slipping when wet but today the moisture was all frozen. In summer time this part of the walk is less well lit when the trees are better covered and it has a magical look.

The clouds had been gathering as we stood on the ridge, and by the time we were in the forest light snow was falling.

A good outing for a short walk, fantastic views but only decaffeinated coffee afterwards. I was forced to have a proper coffee once I got home.

 

Download file for GPS

 

 

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