Loch Katrine – the scenery of a fairy dream

13.4 miles 5h 25m ascent 373m

Strochanlachar-Trossachs Pier

Loch Katrine was gouged by glaciers during the last ice age, named for the ceathairne, highland robbers such as Rob Roy MacGregor who stalked its surroundings, and co-opted by Victorian engineers, who raised its water level by seventeen feet to provide healthy water for Glasgow. It inspired Sir Walter Scott to pen The Lady of the Lake, and his descriptions kick-started tourism in the Trossachs.

The wanderer’s eye could barely view
The summer heaven’s delicious blue;
So wondrous wild, the whole might seem
The scenery of a fairy dream.

The Lady of the Lake, Walter Scott
Trossachs Pier – The Lady of the Lake ferry behind me

We took the wee ferry, Lady of the Lake, from Trossachs pier at the eastern end of the loch, to Strochanlachar and walked back along the loch-side track.

View from the ferry approaching Strochanlachar

It was a pleasant 45 minute cruise, the weather just right, sunny and clear. The pilot gave us a potted history and pointed out some landmarks along the way. Most of our fellow travellers were taking bicycles across, mostly regular bikes but there were a few e-bikes. I had expected a flurry of riders to pass us in the first few minutes of the walk but we saw very few. The majority must have gone elsewhere.

And now, to issue from the glen,
No pathway meets the wanderer’s ken,
Unless he climb with footing nice
A far-projecting precipice.
The broom’s tough roots his ladder made,
The hazel saplings lent their aid;
And thus an airy point he won,
Where, gleaming with the setting sun,
One burnished sheet of living gold,
Loch Katrine lay beneath him rolled,
In all her length far winding lay,
With promontory, creek, and bay,
And islands that, empurpled bright,
Floated amid the livelier light,
And mountains that like giants stand
To sentinel enchanted land.
High on the south, huge Benvenue
Down to the lake in masses threw
Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly hurled,
The fragments of an earlier world

The Lady of the Lake, Walter Scott
Looking along the loch at Rubha na Mòine

Our plan was to walk back to Trossachs Pier along the “Great Trossachs Path”. A map at Trossachs Pier showed the route as 14 miles, but one at Stronachlachar gave the distance as 12.5 miles. Along the way, signs showed the distance to each end of the path with the sum of those distances as 12.5 miles. As you can see from the distance we walked, the 14 mile estimate is closer to reality.

Glengyle Water
Loch Katrine – Ben Lomond on the far left

The path is used by cars but we saw fewer than half a dozen all day. The path was mostly gravel or tarmac, with just a kilometre of actual loch-side footpath.

The hills immediately next to the loch looked very much like those of Galloway. The picture at the top of this post could easily have been taken at Loch Dee.

Burial Ground, Portnellan

We made good time and took a break every 3.5 miles or so. There were some tree stumps after Glengyle House for our first break, then benches at the viewpoint opposite Royal Cottage, and a grassy bank near Brenachoile Lodge.

Old Man

A pleasant easy walk in great weather. It didn’t feel like 14 miles.

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