Hearts & Heroes

The big day! 29 miles of the Southern Upland Way, 10 hours, 1100m ascent

An early start since the event kicked off at 7am. David had stayed overnight in a tent, as had Elaine’s sister. When the rest of us arrived the the Navy contingent were already making breakfast.

St Mary’s Loch was hidden in mist and though the ground was wet it didn’t look like rain.

A great day. We milled about in the crowd at the start receiving the uplifting speech from the organiser and at 7.15 am we were on our way, making such good time that folk were warning us not to go too fast. The runners were supposed to set off at 9am but there were people running past us right from the beginning.

When we got to the top of the first minor hill, a shoulder of Hawkshaw rig, there were a couple of soldiers recovering by having a cigarette. I had thought that the army groups taking part would stick together but we often passed guys on their own, presumably left behind because of being too slow?

By now of course I was forewarned that Traquair was not at the bottom of the hill so I arrived in good fettle to find our support team, have a sandwich and change socks. We had quite a long rest and by the time we were away again I think we were fully recovered.

At the three Brethren we met a film crew who interviewed Joanna. The walk was going swimmingly well as far as Gala after which we were walking a route we had not tried before. The organisers decided to use psychological warfare against us during the final 5 miles.

We passed a chap who smiled, waved, congratulated us and said we had just 5 miles to go. Fifteen minutes later another said exactly the same thing. We walked past a sign saying Melrose 2 miles and 10 minutes later another saying the same.

By the time we finished, I was finished, unable to do anything more. A great achievement. I had worried that I would not be able to complete the challenge in 12 hours but managed with plenty of time to spare.

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Dumfries to Lochfoot

 16 miles     4 hours 45 mins     Total ascent 226m

Pleasant walk with lots of lambs and calves, mounted damsels in (minimal) distress and even an orange-tipped butterfly. (Another Margaret walk)

The cycle track from near the A701/A75 junction then onto the disused railway to Garroch. The old road along to Clunie, Collochan, Drummore bridge and Lochfoot. After a lunch break we took the old military road back to Cargenbridge then back to the disused railway walkway.

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East Lodge to Mabie

20.1 miles     6 hours 10 mins     Max elevation 326m total ascent 700m

Fantastic walk. I’ve broken the 20 mile barrier! Shame there wasn’t enough milk for hot chocolate.

The forestry have tracks from East Lodge, between Mainsriddle and Caulkerbush, all the way north to Kinharvie Bridge. From there we walked along the road to Shambellie Wood and then past Trostan Hill to Mabie.

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Margaret’s Mabie Special

18.2 miles     5 hours 40 mins     Max elevation 192m but total ascent 642m

A good walk at what I would regard as a blistering pace. I was certainly flagging at the end and if we had gone further I would have needed a break and refuelling. As well as my piriformis syndrome on the right I had numb toes on the left which I presume is tarsal tunnel syndrome. In retrospect I had the tarsal tunnel symptoms on the Traquair – Gala walk as well. I might change to thinner socks after 10 miles or so next time. P.S. Elaine, please slow David down a bit…put a brick in his rucksack or something.

The route map for this walk is now lost and I can’t recall the various paths, mostly MTB, that Mags led us along. I had been hoping to break the 20 mile barrier before Hearts & Heroes but it wasn’t to be this day.

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Traquair to Gala

The Three Brethren

12.7 miles 4 hours 50 mins   523 m

Three miles of ascent at the beginning really does take it out of you, but there are many miles of downhill to recover. The hill from Yair then gets you at the end. I think that the climb up Minch Moor will be slower on the day having done 4 hours before getting to it.

Retrospective:

The second recce for Hearts and Heroes, along the Southern Upland Way. Much better weather than our first outing. We parked at Traquair and got a taxi back from Gala at the end of the walk. The climb up Minchmoor was still a challenge and as usual I lagged behind, not helped by having tied my shoelaces too tight. I was, however, able to come up with a game plan of a two stop strategy for this section on the actual H&H day.

Two things stick in my mind from this walk, both on the section of the Drover’s road down from Broomy Law. Firstly meeting a couple with some very big dogs that came bounding along the path towards us. Elaine was out in front and must have been annoyed for some reason. She told them that David and I, someway back, were very frightened of dogs so the owners came running along trying to stop them.

The second was an elderly chap with a wide smile, a ZZ top beard containing the remnants of breakfast, a massive rucksack and a brightly coloured golfing umbrella, who told us that he was intending to walk to Innerleithen then to the West Highland Way. We asked him if he meant the Southern Upland Way, which he was on, but no, he was going to walk to the WHW, a good 60 miles away. He was sleeping in bothies.

The path up to the three brethren looked steep but surprisingly, once on it the walk was not too arduous. In truth I think this is because it isn’t actually steep, just some kind of optical illusion.

Mike and David at the point of resolution

This was the first outing for the bright red top that Lynn had bought for me. You will see that the camera’s sensor couldn’t cope with it properly. The picture is taken at the “point of resolution” near Minchmoor. The circles are in fact ovals that appear to be circles from that particular place. If you look on Google earth you’ll see the real shapes.

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Cairnsmore of Dee and Benniguinea

Clatteringshaw

9.5 miles 5 hours 30 mins 484m

Surely these nine miles are worth 15? Was it a walk from hell? Not really, it could have been worse, but enjoyment was sadly lacking in the ascent. I found myself thinking “If I just keep putting one foot in front of the other I’ll eventually get there.” A step upwards without sinking was a special bonus. Even my walking pole wilted. Clearly some people don’t share my views. See this link of a grandad doing the walk. I do wonder if we somehow missed a slightly easier way up but don’t intend going to find the lost pathway to the Dee. I agree with David that future walks should be pathway or no way. Cairnsmore? Nevermore.

Retrospective:

I was keen to “do the three Cairnsmores” so this walk attracted my attention. Elaine was lucky enough to have a cold so was spared this trial. I don’t think we did miss a path, there isn’t one. The terrain was Gallovidian tussocks and waterlogged land but compounded by us climbing through felled forest with the added problems of branches covering holes etc. David seemed to sail through this hell on earth whereas I floundered. As I mentioned in the original post one of my walking poles was bent as I fell in a muddy patch, leaving it shaped like an olympic downhill ski-pole.

After the difficult trek up the Rig of Craig Gilbert there are a great many granite slabs that make the going easier. We stopped for lunch at the summit overlooking the lochans up there. The walk from Cairnsmore of Dee to Benniguinea was still difficult but substantially easier than the Rig of Craig Gilbert.

Clambering up the steep NW face of Benniguinea, David spotted the Radio Mast and called back that he could see it. I think this was supposed to make me feel better along the lines of “almost there”. Unfortunately, knowing how tall the mast was, this just reinforced that there was still quite a way to go.

Once on Benniguinea there are good views of the Galloway hills behind Clatteringshaws Loch. More important, there is a road all the way down. In retrospect this walk would be much easier done clockwise so that the most difficult terrain is done downhill.

I recall during this walk developing an antipathy towards the author of one of my walking books that describes this walk. He had not in my opinion fully expounded the difficulties involved. I even contemplated writing to him to complain.

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Tibbie Shiels

18.3 miles     time 6h 30m

Well that wasn’t easy. See the  elevation  to see why. Good walk though. 

At least the second, still to be done, half has a better profile.

 

I’m sorry Mike but I (Elaine) refuse to believe we only walked 18.3 miles.  It was a bloody challenge in itself, not really looking forward to doing 29 now:-(  Perhaps you only measured it as the crow flies – I’ve told people we did around 20 miles!!!

Mike – the uphill miles were hard going and judging by our times we must have been going some in the downhill home straight to make up for my pauses up to Minchmoor. From what I recall we took 3 hours 55 mins to Traquair (3.1 mph), lunched for 20 minutes then did  6.3 miles in 2 hours 15m (2.8 mph)

Retrospective:

This was our first recce of the route we were to walk in Hearts and Heroes later in the year. Part of the gradual increase in miles needed as our training. The original plan had been to walk from Tibbie Shiels to Traquair but David, a hard task master as befits his navy background, felt we needed to be pushed harder and had decided we would head for Yarrowford instead. This would be the longest walk I had done for ten years.

We arrived at St Mary’s Loch at about 10 am. I remember the temperature was 6 degrees and this was obviously cold because I was wearing a thick fleece under my coat (unusual for me except in very chilly weather). This route follows the SUW along the south bank of the Loch with David clacking along with walking poles because of his dodgy knee.

David with the sign he repaired

Morale boosters (jelly babies) were deployed at Dryhope and the path then climbed gradually to Blackhouse. I well remember coming to the signpost at Mid Hill and being shocked that it was still 5 miles to Traquair, and our sandwich break.

Traquair itself was a psychological challenge. As the path descended from Blake Muir we could see a village which we presumed to be Traquair. My mind went into “almost there” mode. Soon we could see a bench that seemed a likely spot to rest. But it turned out the bench was in Kirkhope cemetery, so that didn’t seem an appropriate place to stop. Traquair was another mile along the road. A very long mile it seemed.

After lunch on the bench in Traquair we headed up Minchmoor, a steady pull up 350m which served to sap my energy to the extent that I became very quiet (even more so than usual).

By the time we left the SUW to head down towards Yarrowford the temperature had dropped further and we tramped on in silence.

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Older Walks

 

Mabie 8 February      7.7 miles     elevation 188m     time 2h 15m

Mabie 14 February     7.2 miles     elevation 188m     time 2h

Mabie 21 February     8.5 miles     elevation 216m     time 2h 30m

This did seem a more arduous walk and though the height was not that much greater we obviously had much more climbing. As ever the distance covered by the dog must have been significantly longer. The Shed Chocolate™ at the end looked fit to tempt a saint, while the milky coffee vexed mere mortals to maintain the balance of nature. Mike requests there be no more talk of his (male) colleagues in lycra shorts. He has been forced to apply bleach to his mind to remove the risk of unpleasant flashbacks.

 

Elaine will try and curb talk of lycra shorts – especially those worn by afore mentioned colleagues…… but as walk is 29 miles and will take many hours to complete, I feel it may be difficult not to revisit at some point.  Do we need list of suitable conversation topics?

Mabie 28 February     6.8 miles     elevation 216m     time 2h

Mabie 1 March      13.1 miles     elevation 216m     time 3h 45m

Includes some off piste, which would be better to re-route for future walks. Only lost the border terrier once for five minutes, but that was during the of path part. Mike required cheese on toast resuscitation after this one. Dogs have switched to sleep mode.

 

Mabie 1 March      12 miles     time 3h 20mins     Elaine – David only did 7 miles as he’s not as fit as me!

As you might expect, I had absolutely no idea which paths we followed – there was definitely no off piste though.  Wore new boots with no major problems, but could have done with the poles as well.  Feeling bit nervous as my legs/hips know they’ve been walking…. I need more training. Can’t believe Sweep was out again today after all his ‘exercise’ yesterday!!!  Poor Oscar.   Look forward to another good walk next Sunday.

 

Mabie 7 March     13.7 miles        time 3h 58m     Mike, Leo and Sweep only

Wet, wet, wet.

Mabie 8 March     14 miles           time 3h 56m

This was much harder than yesterday. I (Mike) thought it would have been a longer walk since I felt pushed throughout, almost at the level of asking for a drop in pace, yet the time was the same as yesterday which was a much easier pace. Perhaps the distances measured are not correct, or the slopes were different.

I have bought another stick, in fact two since it was buy one get one free. The slope up from Dalshinnie with the wind in my face would have finished me off without a stick.

Mabie 15 March 13.9 miles          time 4h 12m

Seemed easier than last Sunday. Could be a slower pace, better weather, or two walking poles?

 

 

Mabie again, winding down now.       9 miles      didn’t look at my watch but about 2h 30m

Possible change in travel/sleeping arrangements mooted.

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