Ayrshire Coastal Path: 2 – beaches, barriers and braying bovines

7.18 miles 3h 19m ascent 118m

Ballantrae-Lendalfoot

Trudge: V. (intr) to walk laboriously, wearily or without spirit but steadily and persistently (Orig. obsc)

The Shorter Oxford English Dictionary

This word accompanied my thoughts as I walked, and re-appeared as I reflected on the day. I had assumed it to be a lexical blend of tread and drudge, but with each step on the beach I began to wonder if it might be onomatopoeic. The internet, with its limitless supply of unproven etymologies, suggested an origin in Scandinavian words, such as trudja, snowshoes, so perhaps I’m not the only one to associate crunch and trudge.

The weather had been lovely for several days but we arrived to grey skies, rain and blustery winds. On a better day we would have savoured the views and given the hedgerows the attention they deserved. We might not have been quite so put out by walking beside a main road and could have enjoyed our lunch in the open air.

Instead. We trudged.

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The Last of the Long Field Hills

2.29 miles 1h 15min ascent 75m

Little Auchenfad Hill

Auchenfad, achadh fada, means the long field, which I take to be the land bounded by Craigbill and Auchenfad Hills to the north, and Trostan and Little Auchenfad Hills to the south. Little Auchenfad Hill was the one we had yet to visit.

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Auchengray Hill – one of Monica’s neighbours

2.21 miles 1h 44m ascent 132m

I have seen two suggested origins for the name Auchengray. Field of the moor or field of the herd. Auchen is common in place names, almost certainly coming from achadh, ‘field’ and an/na ‘the’; The second part might be gréaich, ‘mountain flat’, ‘level moory place’ or greigh ‘herd’. I’m discounting suggestions that the second part is from the Norse grar, meaning ‘gray’ since the first part of the name is Gaelic. There are no records of the name before it became anglicised so we will probably never know but the top of the hill is certainly a ‘level moory place’, as you can see in the photo above.

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Ayrshire Coastal Path: 1 – fairy foxgloves and standing stones

9.54 miles 4h 21m ascent 209m

Glen App Kirk- Ballantrae

Behind yon hills where Stinsiar flows,
‘Mang moors an’ mosses many, O

Robert Burns

This was our first section of the Ayrshire Coastal Way, taking us from Glen App Kirk over hills and across moors to Ballantrae and the River Stinchar. Nine and a half miles, but 15.3 miles according to my GPS tracker which seemed to think I had gone across Loch Ryan. There are two options for this section: one takes a “Clifftop route” between the Shallochwreck Burn and Downan point, while the other, the “Scenic route” meanders along farm tracks and (very) minor roads about a kilometre inland. I would usually have chosen the clifftop option but some descriptions I had read suggested it was closed, while others painted a disconcerting picture of electric fences and dangerous paths needed to avoid bulls etc. What with having the dogs with us it seemed prudent to choose the Scenic Route.

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Three Peaks: Day 3 – Whernside, viaduct, aqueduct and bolting rhubarb

8.04 miles 5h 3min ascent 473m

Ribblehead-Viaduct-Dales High Way-Cable Rake-Whernside-Skelside-Broadrake-The Scar- Gunnersfleet-Ribblehead

Whernside was the third of our Yorkshire Three Peaks walk. It takes its name from the OE cweorn ‘Quern, millstone’ and at 736m it is the highest of Yorkshire’s three peaks, and the highest summit in Yorkshire – at least since the 1974 boundary changes kicked its rival, Mickle Fell (literally Great Hill), into County Durham.

Our walk is summed up pretty well by The Yorkshire Dales website description of the route from Ribblehead…

Starting from the impressive Ribblehead Viaduct this route takes you to the highest point in Yorkshire – Whernside. On a clear day there are great views out to the Howgills, the Lake District and Morecambe Bay. The ascent of Whernside involves a long steady climb and a lovely high-level ridge. The descent is steeper with a final flat section through the fields to finish underneath the spectacular Ribblehead viaduct.

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Three Peaks: Day 2 – Ingleborough, limestone pavements and powdery primulas

9.28 miles 6h 22min ascent 470m

Ribblehead-Gauber quarry-Park Fell-Souther Scales Fell-Swine Tail-Ingleborough-Sulber Nick-Horton

Ingleborough is the second highest of the Yorkshire Three Peaks and the second of our Three Peaks’ walks. After a very wet outing the day before, we were expecting a better day, but the weather was actually better than had been forecast.. We decided to park in Horton-in-Ribblesdale, take the train to Ribblehead and walk back to Horton via Ingleborough. The long ridge walk had looked quite daunting from the road but wasn’t too bad.

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Three Peaks: Day 1 – Pen-y-Ghent in wild weather

8.73 miles 5h 56min ascent 533m

Pen y ghent on a clearer day

Horton-Brackenbottom-Pen y Ghent-Plover Hill-Foxup Moor-Horton Moor

As soon as we arrived in Horton it was obvious we would be walking in waterproofs. We began with drizzle (which my mother claimed would wet you more than any other type of rain), but did have some proper heavy rain though much of the day featured drizzle fine enough to be regarded as “not raining”. I would like to congratulate my jacket and waterproof trousers on a successful day. I cannot say the same for my boots, which have had the football manager treatment – sacked and replaced at the end of the week.

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Yeork-sher: wet boots, mired tyres and abandoned walks

That doesn’t sound particularly promising, does it? But I enjoyed it. The old adage is that good sailors are not made by smooth seas. And the philosophers suggest that enjoyment is perhaps heightened with a wee dash of adversity thrown into the mix. Certainly, the pain of the latter does seem to fade as the memory of the former blooms.

Our plan had been to continue southwards from the end of the Eden Way at Garsdale, to hook up with the Dales Way, which would carry us through the Dales. But we were dealt a middling hand at the outset, and what cards I had, I played poorly. And to cap it all I had developed a troublesome C5/6 radicular pain. That said: I now know where to find my car’s towing hook; I had a steak and ale pie that will be the one by which all others will be measured; Storm Babet kicked our plans in to touch but made the waterfalls impressive; we saw Swaledale sheep in Swaledale; walked in Wensleydale and ate Wensleydale cheese; crossed moor and dale in sunshine and mist; all while walking parts of the Dales Way, Ribble Way, Three Peaks trail, Pennine Journey, Pennine Way and Pennine Bridleway.

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