Three Peaks: Day 3 – Whernside, viaduct, aqueduct and bolting rhubarb

8.04 miles 5h 3min ascent 473m

Ribblehead-Viaduct-Dales High Way-Cable Rake-Whernside-Skelside-Broadrake-The Scar- Gunnersfleet-Ribblehead

Whernside was the third of our Yorkshire Three Peaks walk. It takes its name from the OE cweorn ‘Quern, millstone’ and at 736m it is the highest of Yorkshire’s three peaks, and the highest summit in Yorkshire – at least since the 1974 boundary changes kicked its rival, Mickle Fell (literally Great Hill), into County Durham.

Our walk is summed up pretty well by The Yorkshire Dales website description of the route from Ribblehead…

Starting from the impressive Ribblehead Viaduct this route takes you to the highest point in Yorkshire – Whernside. On a clear day there are great views out to the Howgills, the Lake District and Morecambe Bay. The ascent of Whernside involves a long steady climb and a lovely high-level ridge. The descent is steeper with a final flat section through the fields to finish underneath the spectacular Ribblehead viaduct.

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Three Peaks: Day 2 – Ingleborough, limestone pavements and powdery primulas

9.28 miles 6h 22min ascent 470m

Ribblehead-Gauber quarry-Park Fell-Souther Scales Fell-Swine Tail-Ingleborough-Sulber Nick-Horton

Ingleborough is the second highest of the Yorkshire Three Peaks and the second of our Three Peaks’ walks. After a very wet outing the day before, we were expecting a better day, but the weather was actually better than had been forecast.. We decided to park in Horton-in-Ribblesdale, take the train to Ribblehead and walk back to Horton via Ingleborough. The long ridge walk had looked quite daunting from the road but wasn’t too bad.

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Three Peaks: Day 1 – Pen-y-Ghent in wild weather

8.73 miles 5h 56min ascent 533m

Pen y ghent on a clearer day

Horton-Brackenbottom-Pen y Ghent-Plover Hill-Foxup Moor-Horton Moor

As soon as we arrived in Horton it was obvious we would be walking in waterproofs. We began with drizzle (which my mother claimed would wet you more than any other type of rain), but did have some proper heavy rain though much of the day featured drizzle fine enough to be regarded as “not raining”. I would like to congratulate my jacket and waterproof trousers on a successful day. I cannot say the same for my boots, which have had the football manager treatment – sacked and replaced at the end of the week.

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Yeork-sher: wet boots, mired tyres and abandoned walks

That doesn’t sound particularly promising, does it? But I enjoyed it. The old adage is that good sailors are not made by smooth seas. And the philosophers suggest that enjoyment is perhaps heightened with a wee dash of adversity thrown into the mix. Certainly, the pain of the latter does seem to fade as the memory of the former blooms.

Our plan had been to continue southwards from the end of the Eden Way at Garsdale, to hook up with the Dales Way, which would carry us through the Dales. But we were dealt a middling hand at the outset, and what cards I had, I played poorly. And to cap it all I had developed a troublesome C5/6 radicular pain. That said: I now know where to find my car’s towing hook; I had a steak and ale pie that will be the one by which all others will be measured; Storm Babet kicked our plans in to touch but made the waterfalls impressive; we saw Swaledale sheep in Swaledale; walked in Wensleydale and ate Wensleydale cheese; crossed moor and dale in sunshine and mist; all while walking parts of the Dales Way, Ribble Way, Three Peaks trail, Pennine Journey, Pennine Way and Pennine Bridleway.

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Mull of Galloway Trail: 5 – moorland, laight, and stane

7.50 miles 4h 25m ascent 310m

Cairnryan-Glenapp-Finnart’s Bay

The final leg of the Mull of Galloway Trail took us along the Loch Ryan Coastal Path to Glenapp and from there we walked on to Finnarts Bay.

The name Glenapp might have arisen from LachtAlpin, (Grave of Alpin) named for Alpin mac Echdach, a ninth century King of Dalriada who was assassinated nearby. Laight Moor over which we would walk means Grave Moor, and the Taxing Stone on that moor is said to mark the king’s grave.

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Mull of Galloway Trail: 4 – Swans, Gorse and missed turns

7.12 miles 3h 56m ascent 38m

Stranraer to Cairnryan on The Loch Ryan Coastal Path

A puncture on the way to Stranraer had me thinking that we would have to postpone the walk but speedy service by Sandmill MOT Centre soon had us back on the road. But we decided on a shorter walk, to Cairnryan rather than Glenapp. As it was, that was for the best. The day proved hotter than expected and a jungle-like session with me carrying one of the dogs sapped my energy. I’m sure we could have made it to Glenapp but I probably wouldn’t have enjoyed the last four miles.

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Mull of Galloway Trail: 3 – oh ffs! off piste again

8.31 miles 4h 15m ascent 87m

Clayshant Bridge to Agnew Park

This should have been an easy stroll from Luce Bay to Loch Ryan. Not too far, indeed perhaps too short a leg. The weather forecast promised a hot sunny day, and was spot on. I expected an enjoyable walk with little in the way of challenges but the section between mile-markers 22 and 23 was the jalapeño lurking unsuspected in my sandwich.

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Mull of Galloway Trail: 2 – trudging over shingle and wading through bracken

9.42 miles 5h 48m ascent 68m

Myroch Point to Clayshant Bridge

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