Crunching and Crackling over Cauldcleuch Head

7.1 miles  4h 32m  ascent 521m

Stob Fell-Pennygant Hill-Cauldcleuch Head-Millstone Edge-Tudhope Hill

There is a plantation of larch and spruce on the road above Billhope with space to park a car or two at its gate. From there, in bright sunshine, but freezing temperatures I set off for Billhope and the bridge over Billhope Burn. Walking down the road, ruminating on how appropriate -hope (hollow) was as a name, I spotted an opportunity for a shortcut  by crossing a field directly to the bridge at NY445977, perhaps saving 400m. Entering the field proved easy since there was a gate, but exiting presented what management types call a challenge, with two barbwire topped fences in the way.

Parking spot above Billhope. Note the parachute on my shadow.

After about 300m of the path along Billhope burn there was a small quarry with a path leading up onto South Mid Hill. The first section was steep enough to mimic a scree slope but soon eased off. The right thing to do here would be leave the path before it turns into the cleuch and head directly up the hill. I say that with the benefit of hindsight since I stayed on the path which carried me into an increasing steep sided cleuch and then petered out.

Billhope Burn. The quarry and path can be seen.

The climb up to the ridge of South Mid Hill proved interesting since it was over partially frozen moss, grass and pools of water. The sensation and sound was like walking in snow: crunching, and occasionally the more worrying crackling of frozen puddles. Once I got onto the ridge there was a faint track, which was presumably made by walkers who had not stayed on the path as far as I did.

South Mid Hill from Stob Fell

I walked through the semi-frozen bogginess of South Mid Hill, the sun glinting on pools of water, and found that the ground firmed up once I reached the higher ground of Stob Fell. There were small areas of snow in hollows but the distant Cheviot and Moffat Hills were completely white.

Pennygant Hill and Stob Fell (from Tudhope)

The route was straightforward, following the ridges from Pennygant Hill via Muckle Land Knowe to Cauldcleuch Head, then along Footman Hass via Millstone Edge to Tudhope Hill.

Pennygant summit, Tudhope Hill behind.

There are a number of interpretations for the meaning of Pennygant (Pen Y Gant) Hill: the hill of the foreigners, hill of the boundary/edge, or hill of the wind. Having walked its ridge I would tend to support pen y gwynt (hill of the wind). Whether it is a hill of wind, boundary or foreigners, Pennygant is a pathless boggy moor, with heather and deep moss. Walking across it was a good aerobic workout and in poor visibility would be a challenge.

Orange topped stakes on Blackgrain Side

Someone had planted a number of orange topped stakes along the way which proved as good a route as any and once at Muckle Land Knowe there was a fence to follow for the rest of the walk. A my appetite grew I wondered where I might find some shelter for lunch. The hollows were filled with snow and I worried if I might be swallowed up by peaty mud beneath it. Archeologists millennia from now would find me and write papers on the meal I had eaten before being cast into the bog. “As with many of the peat bog bodies he had eaten the ritual meal of bread, ham, cheese and pickle”.

Cauldcleuch head from Langtae Hill

Cauldcleuch Head, the main aim of this Donald-bagging walk, proved quite underwhelming of itself. Nothing other than a trivium of fences marked its summit but being the highest point thereabouts it had extensive views: Skelfhill Pen and the Eildons to the north, and the snow covered hills of Moffat and the Cheviots to west and east.

Icicles above the quarry

The temperature dropped considerably on the north slopes of Cauldcleuch Head (the clue is in the name I suppose) and this produced an intense feeling of fear for a few seconds until rational thought regained control. Presumably this must have been some sort of adrenaline mediated autonomic response. Weird.

Maiden Paps and the Cheviots in the distance (from Muckle land Knowe)

Tramping through the semi-frozen moss and heather of Footman Hass, listening to the crunching beneath my feet, boredom must have set in, and I began to wonder if with my eyes closed it would seem I was walking through snow. So kids, just take it from me, if you are walking through deep undergrowth on uneven ground, don’t close your eyes. Don’t ask, just follow uncle Michael’s advice.

Tudhope Hill from Millstone Edge

Tudhope Hill (which locals pronounce without vowels, T’d’h’p) has a trig pillar and appears to be the highest point of this walk, though it is 20m lower than Cauldcleuch Head. The descent from Tudhope Hill was a bit of strain on ageing knees but the ground eventually became firmer. I began to wonder if this walk might not have the usual terrain set-up of these southern hills: wet undergrowth that thoroughly cleans footwear surrounded by a ring of muddy ground to re-encrust them just before the end.

Descending Tudhope Hill

On the lower slopes my smile faded as I looked down on the rush like grass between me and the car. The sun had worked its magic on the ground there and thoroughly defrosted the mud.

I suspect this will be a very wet walk on warmer days.

 

 

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Heatherstane Law from Lamington

11.1 miles  5h 19m  ascent 674m

Hardrig Head-Whitelaw Brae-Windgate Bank-Hudderstone

This walk started at a pleasant car park near the church in Lamington. There is a tree lined single track road leading up to Baitlaws which would be good for tree spotting in the summer. It was gently uphill which brought a warmth to my heart, knowing the last kilometre homewards would be downhill.

Baitlaws

At Baitlaws there is a sign encouraging walkers to head left down to the burn where there is a choice of wet feet (ford) or dry feet (wooden bridge). Beyond Lamington Burn, and just after leaving the woods, the path forks. I took the right fork and eventually returned down that on the left 5 hours later.

Lamington Burn

The right hand track passes briefly through the trees where it crosses a couple of small burns then turns south and leads to the farm buildings at Bleakfield. Here again there is a choice of ford or bridge and then a track leading onto Easkgill Rig.

The fork near Baitlaw

Easkgill Rig would appear to be a rather boring 1.5 km of climb through heather and moss, but has I think got a Bermuda triangle-like region at about 450m. I had been tramping up the Rig, picking my way through soggy areas, watching deer running away and looking at nearby geological features to pinpoint my position. The hilltops were in cloud and the level dropped at times to embrace me.

Bleakfield, looking up Easkgill Rig

I was expecting to meet a fence or wall coming from my left. All I needed to do was follow the fence up to Hardrig Head. By this time I was in mist and was surprised to meet a fence coming from my right. So either I was not where I thought or this fence was not the one on the map. I was certain that I was on Easkgill Rig, so I decided that the fence’s line might have been moved. It did look new and its bearing was not the same as that on the map. I followed the the fence, but something was wrong. I was now going down hill.  Time to stop and think.

Back where I had met the fence there were several faint tracks leading in at least four different directions. The cloud now lifted to show a hill to my right with wind turbines atop, Hardrig Head. The fence led directly up to it.

Looking back down Easkgill Rig. Tinto in the distance

Once out of mist I could see what had happened. There was a gap in the fence where I was and presumably vehicles had begun to divert from the mapped path to use this opening. The track I was following had turned to the left but in the mist I had not noticed the change in direction. Had the fence not been there I would soon have had warning that something was awry with my route as I stopped climbing.

I decided to follow the fence line rather than the path, in case the cloud dropped again and led me astray. The way up by the fence was pathless heather and the cause I think of the following day’s aching legs.

Hardrig Head, industry in the hills

Hardrig Head is at the eastern end of a wind farm array. The map describes a cairn but I did not find one at the highest point. I suspect that either the high point or the cairn may have been destroyed in construction of the wind farm. Looking north from here there are hills and nature. Looking south a broad road linking the wind farm arrays scars the hillsides. Mind you aesthetics are strange things. Perhaps a visitor from millennia past would have looked north and shed tears that the land was now virtually denuded of trees. He would have looked south and seen strange white giants on the hilltops but a valley full of trees.

Road to Whitelaw Brae

Whitelaw Brae

I chose to use the wind farm road to rest my legs for a while, but once at Deil’s Barn Door I relented and returned to the heather and sphagnum of the ridge over Whitelaw Brae to Windbank Gate. There is a trig pillar on Whitelaw Brae which I used as a windbreak for a my elevenses. From here on the walk was in cloud until after Hudderstone’s summit. The SMC Southern Uplands book uses the phrases: “good view”;”splendid view”; “fine view”  in describing the glories of Whitelaw Brae and Hudderstone. I was denied these views by cloud but I suppose this meant I paid more attention to the mosses and heather I was walking over. This was certainly a very soggy ridge and a good test of footwear waterproofing. Certainly my boots were clean at this stage of the walk.

Splendid View, between Duncangill and Windgate Bank

From Windgate Bank the fence drops steeply into Kyegill Slop. Looking down, this steep valley was filled with mist giving it the appearance of an abyss. I decided that descending into an abyss was outside my abilities so walked further along to a less steep, and more visible, section. I crossed the slap near an animal pen then made my way back to the fence which I followed up to Hudderstone.

Mist filled Kyegill Slop

Kyegill Slop is an interesting name. Gill (Norse) and slap (Scots) both refer to narrow valleys. I presume that Kyegill Slop, Cowgill Glen/Rig and Key Cleuch have the same root, but what does Kye/Cow mean? Kay/Ceo are Gaelic for fog, and having looked down into this mist filled valley I am inclined to believe that I am not the first to have done so.

Hudderstone summit, nowhere to put the camera

Hudderstone (Heatherstane Law being its earlier name) does not have an obvious summit so I had the usual wandering about to find a high point but then set off to find the pile of stones marked near the 620m contour on the OS. These hills are short on places to sit for lunch, being made of wet moss and heather. If any erratics were dropped here they have been swallowed by the peat, so piles of stones are a valuable find for a sit-down lunch.

Seating for lunch, Hudderstone

View during lunch

There is a track down Cowgill Rig, at first faint, but eventually joining a constructed path at a gate around 480m. From this path there are views of Cowgill Reservoir, Woodycleuch Dod and Key Cleuch with Cowgill Loch. Ahead was Lamington Hill. After some consideration I decided not to include it in the day’s walk so headed off Cowgill Rig down the western side of a plantation of pines.

Key Cleuch, Cowgill Loch just visible

The easiest going was close to the trees but beware, there are a great many fence wires lying about to trip the unwary. The upper slopes are heather and the lower slopes tussock grass. At the bottom is the single track road serving Cowgill Reservoir. Cow Gill runs in an unusually shaped flattened valley floor that was presumably once a glacial meltwater channel.

Cowgill Loch

I then followed the path along Key Cleuch, past Cowgill Loch and back to the track to Baitlaws, a nice gentle end to the walk, though the spent shotgun cartridges along the way were a little disquieting.

CSI Key Cleuch

 

Lichen

 

 

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Woodhead Hill – an itch scratched

4.16 miles  1h 51m  ascent 262m

Woodhead Hill is my closest Marylin. I see it most days. That its name does not have a tick next to it has been an irritation for some time. This was the last weekend of the year and I was working until Sunday lunchtime. It was too late to go far, the weather had been wet, wet, wet, but I felt the need to get out in the fresh air. The time had come to conquer Woodhead Hill.

I parked in a lay-by on the A711, near Lochanhead, then walked up the authentically pot-holed farm track to the forestry track running around Mabie Forest. Here I turned right and after about 300m there is a moss covered wall running up the hill. Given the recent downpours I had expected, and dressed for, a mudfest but the ground was firm and well drained.

The way up through the trees. This is the view from the forest track and the wall is just on the left, visible to eyes but not camera

The initial steep section was easy going on an obvious faint track, but as the gradient eased the way was often blocked by fallen trees requiring  some zig-zagging since I had neglected to pack an axe. The plan was to follow this wall until I found the wall heading off to the right at the 215m contour. It was well camouflaged in moss but I was looking carefully and spotted it. It could be missed.

This new wall proved impossible to follow due to young trees so I struck off into some clear ground just to the left of the wall hoping to find a forest break heading in the right direction. I climbed a wee knoll to get a better view and noticed a track next to a wall. I presume this is the same wall I had tried to follow earlier.

Once on the track the going was easier under foot but navigation was a challenge since all that could be seen was forest. All was going well but then the track took a ninety degree left hand turn. Another track joined from the left after about 50m and one headed off to the right after another 50m. This was heading in the right direction so I turned right.

MTB track. This is the track that leads up to the summit, heading due south at this point.

The map contours suggest it should be up hill from here but there is some up and down. At first I thought I had missed the summit as the track went downhill but I pressed on and eventually it started climbing again.

Eventually I reached a place a wooden ramp over a fallen tree, where the track was reasonably straight, and it looked to be the highest point. I had read that the summit is just off an MTB track and is marked by a small cairn. No sign of the cairn though.

Near the summit

The summit cairn is just over there

Woodhead Hill summit cairn

I had my excuses ready (getting late, soon be dark etc) and got my GPS phone out. I was clearly very close to the summit, indeed it was only ten double paces off the path. The cairn is hidden amongst fallen trees and once you know where it is it can be seen from the track.

I decided to follow the MTB track back down and hopefully find an easier route up, but I was not successful in that particular endeavour. There were several MTB tracks and I took photos at the various junctions, but they all look the same. At each junction I tended to chose the track heading in the right general direction, but made an early mistake by turning onto the track mentioned earlier (50m after the left hand turn on the way up). This initially went north but then gradually turned west rather than east. I didn’t realise this until I came out of the trees and saw the River Nith in the distance.

I was tempted to backtrack but the light was failing and I wanted to get out of the forest while there was still light. This track brought me onto one of the major forest tracks at about 200m and I turned north again. This large track ends after 200m.

Cairn above the quarry where I emerged from the trees

There are MTB routes heading off to the right which join up with the perimeter track but I headed onwards through the woods since I have walked that way before and it is less of a zig-zag than the MTB route. This way I came out of the forest due south of Hillhead Farmhouse. It was then a gentle stroll back to the car in the rain.

Quarry in twilight

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See Morris Hill

2.26 miles 50 mins  162 m ascent

A very short walk and an easy route. I started from the foot of the track to Riddingshill and followed the road up until I was just below the giant aerial. From there I left the road and headed across the grass, through a gate, and to the trig pillar.

The weather wasn’t great but there were good views of the surrounding hills, Criffel, Screel, Bishop Forest Hill and Queensberry.

Aerial on See Morris Hill

As I walked across the grass I felt that it was pre-quagmire, but we have had heavy rain.

See Morris Hill with Bishops Forest Hill and Bennan in the background

I had wondered if I should have taken the eastern side of the Aerial compound, as I did, or the western, keeping to the road. I’m pleased I did because, looking down from the top, the ground was very boggy north of the compound.

Sunset over Screel from See Morris Hill

 

See Morris Hill in the wind

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Gathersnow’s Ridge

9.2 miles  5h 48m ascent 702m

Coomb Hill-Gathersnow Hill-Hillshaw Head-Coomb Dod-Glenwhappen Dod

A cold day, -3C according to the car. This walk starts from the A701, near where Fruid Water joins the Tweed. I parked near a locked gate at the start of the forestry track that climbs around Weird Law. The path had a coating of snow about an inch deep and the trees had a light dusting of snow so the scene was like something from a Christmas card.

The road to Weird Hill

After about 2 km the forestry track flattens out. There is a small lochan, not marked on the OS map, at NT 077242 and I left the path here to climb over to the Kingledoors glen. There is a track marked on the OS starting by the Glenbow Burn , but I headed directly over to the Glenmuck Burn. This took me between the two minor prominences of Glenmuck Heights and Bank Head. This was across heather but the going was easy enough. I made the mistake of heading directly along the burn which led me into a narrow steep section. I tried climbing the east bank but gave up when it got too steep so headed over to the other side where I found a faint animal track. It would probably have been better to stay a little east of the burn, the side with a sheepfold, and avoid the narrow gully.

The Kingledoors Glen was strangely free of snow given the amount in the Tweed valley and on the hills. I had worried about crossing the Kingledoors burn and as I looked at it my worry grew. It was too wide to jump, too full to find stepping stones, and the bridge I had seen on google earth images was nowhere to be seen. But it proved easier than I had thought. Twenty metres upstream the burn narrowed enough to easily jump.

Craigengar from Glenmuck Hill

From there I made my way up to a farm track, then headed up Craigengar. The contours were furthest apart in a line running from a ruined farmhouse to a cairn on Craigengar, and I was a little way off this line so I headed up then across. There was a faint track but this petered out at about 400m. The lower slopes were grassy but higher up the heather took over making the going a little more strenuous. There are a series of small cairns below the larger one on the map, though they look more like the remnants of something more substantial. I wondered if they had once been grouse butts.

Looking back down the hill I could see a bridge over Kingledoors burn, close to the ruins. It had a rather strange, Mobius strip appearance. Since I couldn’t see it when down in the valley I wonder if it has collapsed into the burn.

Once on the ridge I found myself in a winter wonderland of snow, cold wind, and excellent visibility showing the surrounding snow capped hills.

Culter Fell from Coomb Hill

I had hoped there would be a path along the summits, particularly between Gathersnow Hill and Hillshaw Head but if there was it hidden beneath the snow. I could sometimes see vehicle tracks in the distance, but up close they were invisible. Despite that the going was easy. Presumably any boggy sections were frozen. I did give some suspiciously flat area between peat hags a wide berth in case they hid unfrozen mud.

One problem on this section was finding a place to rest for lunch. There was no shelter from the wind, the hilltop cairns were diminutive, and there was nothing to sit on other than snow covered heather. I decided that I would stop in the col between Gathersnow Hill and Hillshaw Head. There is a gully at the top of Fingland Burn, but rather than providing shelter this was more like a wind tunnel.

Hillshaw Head

So my lunch was taken a little further up the slopes of Hillshaw Head. My sitting mat proved useless in the snow so I sat on my rucksack having thought through the contents, checking off in my mind whether there was anything vulnerable to being squashed. As I sat on the rucksack munching through my sandwich I remembered the banana.

From Hillshaw Head the heather seemed to be deeper and the going became more difficult. It is only a short climb up Coomb Dod, with its weathered trig point and from then on it is mostly downhill so the deeper heather was somewhat easier.

The way off Coomb Dod

Without doubt, the most tiring section of this walk is that over Glenwhappen Dod and White Knowe Head above the forest. There was deep heather covered in snow. This was like the section in assault courses where you have to step over ropes, but in addition every now and then the ground would prove lower than expected. I feel pleased with myself that I only actually fell over once.

I fell for the old “grass being greener on the other side of the fence” ploy here. I was separated from the forest by a barbed wire topped fence and the terrain over there looked easier. I wondered if the forestry folk might have been driving above the trees. So I manoeuvred myself over the fence only to find things were just as bad.

Once on the summit of Glenwhappen Dod I could see that there was more of the same tiring deep heather to come. Since the summits were no easier I decided to contour around the next couple of prominences. Then I spotted a track in the snow. It was a few metres above the tree line at about 500m.

As I got closer it began to look as if it might be a ruined wall, but even that would be easier then the heather. When I reached it my heart sank. In a film I would have looked up to the sky and screamed “No..oo..oo…oo..oo…oo” my words echoing away as the camera pulled back. It was a ditch.

So I walked beside the ditch. The ground immediately downhill from the ditch had slightly deeper snow fully covering the heather giving the appearance of a path. But the ditch hadn’t finished taunting me. After a while it became wider, less deep, and broader. Since its base was free of heather, and apparently dry, other than snow, I found it was easier to walk in it. But before long it became narrower making it difficult to walk and then deeper. Once the edges were up to my elbow I gave up and climbed out.  I took just short of an hour to cover 2.5 km above the trees.

Once past the trees the forestry track was in sight less than 1km away. Here the fence and an old wall weave along occasionally meeting. I followed the wall initially then headed between a stand of newly planted trees and a more mature plantation to get back to the forestry track where my footprints were still there in the snow.

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Fell Shin to Dun Knees

8 miles 4h 15m  ascent 673m

Cairn at 680m Fell Shin, Chapelgill in the distance

Culter Fell-Chapelgill Hill-Cardon Hill

The parking place, by the burn, past Culter Allers farm was flooded requiring some careful car placement to allow dry access to the door and boot; and the weather required hat and gloves even in the sheltered valley.

After about five minutes the road crosses Kings Beck and I left the tarmac to climb a rather muddy track. This track looks to have been made by fleeing villains. At some point one of them must have shouted “split up” and from there several fainter tracks head in various directions. I tried to head up Fell Shin as directly as I could while making use of tracks where our directions coincided. I reached the line of Grouse butts at about 350m and then climbed up in line with them. It must be quite a slog lugging guns up there, unless one’s valet carts them up?

There is a small outcropping of rocks at the top of the line of grouse butts and once there the gradient eases off. Culter Fell has three distinct sections when climbed this way. There is a steep climb through fern then heather up Fell Shin, by the grouse Butts. Next is a gentler walk from 520m to 620m over firm ground with a covering of short heather (which looks to have burned back a season of so ago). The track here was waterlogged and unusable. There is then a short climb to a cairn at 680m. Finally there is a very gentle gradient up to the summit across boggy ground and waterlogged peat, easy on the muscles but demanding of care by those who prize dry feet.

Looking back down Fell Shin from the rocky outcrop

My navigation homework for this walk was to guess distances and climbs then check the map. My estimates are getting better I think.

Tinto in the distance was topped with cloud throughout this walk, and Culter Fell’s summit was covered as I approached, but then cleared when I was only a couple of hundred metres away. So I was able to have a good look across to the ridge on the other side of Holm Burn, a future walk no doubt. Looking over to Chapelgill Hill, I could see it was actually a triform hill with Cardon Hill and Chapelgill Hills at its ends and Birnies Bowrock at the apex. There is only 23m between the heights of these summits. The whole hill is connected to Culter Fell, like a dog on a lead, by a ridge made up of Dun Knees and Glenharvie Moss.

Tinto in the distance, from Fell Shin

The walk down to Glenharvie Moss is on firm ground mostly, but there are muddy sections where the grass has slipped beneath the weight of boots and careful foot placement was needed at times. The Moss is a peat bog and given the recent weather it was wet. The hags here are not too well developed so there wasn’t much hag-hopping to be done. There were squalls of rain visible throughout the day and I crossed paths with a snow producing one here.

Glenharvie Moss

On the way up Dun Knees, which by the way has a special resonance for a rheumatologist, I came across a fence not marked on the OS map. This led to a few seconds of navigational doubt until I convinced myself I was were I thought I was. I followed this along to Chapelgill Hill’s summit. There were a couple of small cairns there but I suspect the summit is a small unmarked mound nearby.

Chapelgill Hill

I followed the fence back fora short distance but then decided to strike out directly for Birnies Bowrock. A mistake. The vegetation was thicker and deeper with marshy sections so I got back to higher ground which proved easier going. Birnies Bowrock has the biggest cairn of the three summits and I decided to use this as shelter for lunch.

I remain amazed at the additional bounce in my step that a lunch break brings and found myself virtually skipping across to Cardon Hill which stands a good 2m above Birnies Bowrock. As I walked back down to Dun Knees you might guess what happened. My left knee started playing up again. Luckily this coincided with a twenty minute hail storm, mostly blowing straight into my face which acted as distraction therapy. 

Walking down towards Glenarvie Moss I could see a track climbing along the ridge that led to Park Knowe. This looked to be a way to avoid the hags. I could see a black thing at King Bank Head and headed for that. This turned out to be peat hag that had lost its covering of vegetation. A topless hag. From the topless hag I joined the track but soon enough it disappeared so I headed up to the top of the ridge. This had me negotiating a way across deep hags surrounded by mud. So no jumping off them. I should have continued further along the ridge before climbing up.

Topless Peat Hag

Once on the top of the ridge there was a track to follow. This track continues along the ridge but I planned to head down over Juniper Knowes. There was a distinct path heading down that way which made the descent much easier. The stand of trees below Juniper Knowes are pines and some spruce. I didn’t see any junipers.

Once back on the road, the car was only a few minutes away.

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Limping around Drumelzier

9.8 miles  4h 30m  ascent 723m

Pykestone Hill

Pykestone Hill, Middle Hill, Drumelzier Law

This walk starts at the tiny settlement of Drumelzier. The area has a close link with Merlin (Myrddin) who was killed here by a method he himself had predicted; to be bludgeoned, stabbed and drowned and apparently a thorn tree marks Merlin’s grave. There are ruins of a fort, presumably the fort of the reaping-men which gives Drumelzier its name. I had intended visiting these but developed a painful knee while tramping over the hills and left with just my newly bagged Donalds.

Footbridge at the ford

Luckily the lower stretches of Drumelzier Burn have plenty of footbridges, and it certainly raises one’s spirits to find a bridge where the OS marks a ford. The bridges were basic, without handrails, and were slippery with moss, so some care was needed.

Larch and Spruce

I crossed one of these bridges close to where I had parked and walked along the east bank of the burn for 500m before crossing back to the farm track and crossing again where there is a choice of bridge or ford. This leads between two stands of trees. These were a mixture of autumnal larch that were shedding their golden needles and spruce holding on to their greenery.

The path on the east bank of the burn had a mild slope, enough to be noticeable but not difficult. I mention this now since I wonder if it was a trigger for my later problems.

Beside the track is a rock with a small plaque inscribed:

Jim Cox
1934 – 2003
In memory still I climb the hill
and hear the curlews haunting call
listen to the murmuring rill
and see the purple heather bloom

After the spruce and larch the path splits, and I took the fork to the right which slowly climbs over Den Knowes. I climbed from autumn into winter, the heather gradually becoming hidden beneath a thin blanket of white. Once over Den Knowes Head, the snow was deep enough to crunch beneath my feet (reminiscent of a pericardial friction rub). I suspect that the path over this last kilometre to Pykestone Hill is usually boggy, since an additional sound, of cracking ice, warned of deeper puddles. I decided it was better to avoid the path and walked on the heather instead.

By the time I reached Pykestone Hill, with its trig pillar and small cairn I was in a winter wonderland. It was a little too early for lunch so I pressed on for the next target, Middle Hill. There are a couple of minor summits on the way, but this is essentially a ridge walk. The going was unpleasant but not difficult. The ground was boggy with scattered pools but snow hid the boggy sections.

The Thief’s road could be seen wending its way up the side of Dollar Law. Presumably it was somewhere beneath my feet but lost under the snow. It was while walking down from Pykestone Hill that the unpleasantness in my left knee began to manifest. Anterolateral discomfort worse when the knee was bent, much worse going downhill but unaffected by heel-strike. This was the first time in several months I had ventured out without a walking pole, having decided that carrying the pole, usually strapped to my rucksack, was a waste of effort. I blame to sloping path at the beginning, though decrepitness and lack of stretching may have played a part.

Grey Weather Law

The first of the minor summits was Grey Weather Law. This lived up to its name. The top was covered with light mist that still allowed the sun to be seen but diffused the sunlight. This combined with the white ground made me wish I had brought sunglasses. Visibility was very poor, but cleared as I descended just a few metres.

In the col between Grey Weather Law and Long Grain Knowe, the Thief’s road heads off towards Dollar Law and I headed up the deeper heather threading between boggy sections. Middle Hill was also in mist. There was a lone pole in he ground but I felt the highest point was a little way beyond it.

Shepherd’s Cairn, Glenstivon Dod

I returned to the bend in the fence and finding myself in mist headed out on a bearing for the Shepherd’s cairn on Glenstivon Dod. I was pacing out the distance but after a couple of hundred metres I emerged from the cloud and could see the cairn. Glenviston Dod is in fact higher than Drumelzier Law so that was the last of the mist.

Whereas all the other hills were white, Drumelzier Law was black from here with a double white line of a path climbing it. The descent to the col awakened my knee pain, but the ascent, done in the walking equivalent of first gear, was not especially sore. Unfortunately, the path which should have offered the best terrain was icy, so it was more climbing up heather.

Drumelzier Law: no lunch here

There is a small cairn on a knoll at the top of the steeper section of climb and I decided to break for lunch in the lee of this. It seemed to get colder as I sat there, despite the addition of an extra layer. At first I thought this was just because I had stopped walking, but the next event made me question this. I poured myself a coffee from my flask and the wind blew the coffee out of the cup, mostly over me. Luckily it was lukewarm so it didn’t do any damage.

Drumelzier Law summit

I put lunch back in the bag, wiped the coffee from my glasses and got moving. By now the wind had turned very cold indeed so I didn’t hang about at the summit. The first 100m descent was quite painful so I decided to change my descent route. The original plan was to head down towards a sheepfold where the Finglen and Drumelzier burns meet. I chose instead the gentler gradients over Logan Head and Finglen Rig.

Culter and Tinto from Logan Head

This was harder going at first in deep heather but then I came across a track of burnt heather where the going was very much easier. There where several small cairns along the way. In the picture you can see a cairn and the path of burnt heather, with Culter and Tinto in the distance. I rejoined the farm track by the ford marked on the OS (where there is also a bridge) and followed that back to the car.

Den Knowes from Logan Head

I left the ruins of the fort etc. for a day with a better knee.

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MLT expedition: should have eaten my spinach

12.8 miles  950m ascent   2 days (probably 14 hours)

Where do I start this tale? I’ll skip the story of the packing and begin at breakfast. Preserved Killick, fresh out of Portsmouth, could not have beaten it. I slipped the serviette from its holder laid it across my lap and set about the fresh homemade muesli, toast, bacon, eggs, sausages, tomatoes, haggis, mushrooms and a cafetiere of coffee, while our landlady filled my flask with coffee and delivered the day’s sandwiches. I had of course been exercising a degree of self control, not wanting to be bloated whilst walking, so had foregone the porridge (which had it been taken would have been sweetened not salted) and declined the offer of additional toast.

At breakfast David and I received the news that Marcin had been recalled by work and wouldn’t be able to join us on the expedition which was very unlucky for him. I hope he gets to complete his MLT at some point.

After breakfast we had a final kit check, packed up our belongings, said good-bye to our landlady and loaded the car ready for the drive down to our rendezvous at the road end near Glenmore Lodge.

Just outside Grantown we spotted some of our fellow trainees changing a flat tyre. Poor Marcin was with them having accepted a lift rather than taking the bus. I hope he made his train in time. Our exped’s start was going to slightly delayed. The drive down was relaxing though and it looked as if the weather was turning out better than predicted: not so cold and not so wet. Near Glenmore we passed Santa’s sleigh drawn by some reindeer, but I didn’t see Rudolf. Perhaps he is only required for night flights. Either that or his nasal erythematosis has been cured.

Once at Glenmore Lodge we got our kit, split into the two groups from Monday and headed off. As the morning went by each of us was given leadership of the group and had to keep the walkers happy, safe and content. Pete Hill threw some spanners in the works pretending at various times to be hyperthermic, confused, potentially violent and eventually content (“this walk is worth every penny of the thousand pounds”). He managed to detach Nick from the group briefly without the leader noticing immediately and played the part of a “helpful” group member pointing out possible paths every few minutes. I think Ben shone dealing with Pete’s pretended foibles.

We were looking for a path, marked on the OS, leading up to the shoulder south of Creag nan Gall. We saw the other group climbing up through steep pathless heather and hoped we would encounter an easier way. We found a path after a burn, and therefore not that marked on the map. This was definitely a route that had been used by other walkers. We were spared the heather since this route rose through the woods, but it was steep and muddy in places offering opportunities to practice our spotting. It would have been real problem descending by this route.

Once up the mudslides and out onto the hillside we stopped for a break near a gnarled ancient Scot’s Pine with Tom da Chiomhead across the burn.

After the break we had some navigation practice, heading first for the ring contour at 003098; then the lochan at 005096; burn confluence at 012092. I chose to skirt the ring wee knoll that lay between me and then headed directly for the lochan, or directly as one could given the boggy terrain. When heading for the burn confluence however I chose to take a more indirect route than the rest of the group with the aim of climbing out of the bogginess sooner. This added about 300m to my leg, and in retrospect the benefit was not worth the extra effort. If anything the bog was easier than the heather on the slopes.

Our next target was a 672m spot height. We all headed upstream and chose various points to head up onto the col. My decision had been to follow the burn for 500m then head onto the col. As it turned out the burn ran in quite a narrow section and in the real world I would have ditched my plan and climbed out for the possibly easier slopes above, but I stuck with my plan to see how it worked. This and the previous leg, probably helped by the heavy rucksack sapped my energy so I was last up to the 672 pt by quite some time I think. While here we spotted a pair of reindeer on the horizon.

From here we headed down past a small lochan and along curving spur down to Strath Nethy. Just past the lochan I took a tumble into the soft heather but found myself stuck on my back like a beetle on its back, until I was dragged back to my feet.

a deserved rest

I suspect I had knackered myself out and found myself on the slippery slope where I was fatigued and therefore slower, the group arrived at targets before me and had a longer rest than I did at each one, so I steadily got slowed even more. A break overlooking the steep scree slopes of Stoc na h-lolaire though did give me a chance to refuel and rest. From there is was mostly downhill.

We eventually found the faint track on the valley floor and followed it up to Bynack Stables where we were to camp. I had managed to maintain a reasonable degree of dryness throughout the boggy terrain but within 250m of the campsite I stepped into a hidden pool and wetting both feet. The other group were already camped, tents up and cooking their tea.

Camp craft keeping it tidy

I unpacked my gear, put sleeping stuff into the tent and kept my things in reasonable order, or so I thought. Photographs prove otherwise. I certainly felt better for getting dry socks on and some warm food into my stomach. I then lay on my mat waiting for the night navigation exercise: ETD 7.15 pm. We were told it would last about three hours.

I had thought the rucksack would feel lighter without tent, mat, cooking stuff, spare clothes, flask etc, but it didn’t. I was pleased that my head-torch was up to the job, though it did seem weak compared with Pete Hill’s which could I imagine have been used as a searchlight for enemy aircraft.

The night was a series of legs following bearings while pacing out the distance to various ring contours, lochans, stream junctions. On the return journey we were following one person who had a destination known only to them, and had to identify where they went. All this was in heather and bog. Great fun but again I tired markedly at the end and was certainly glad to get back to camp. We had been out over 4 hours. I sat on a comfortable rock and ate some dates washed down with half a litre of fresh water (a schoolboy error).

Lying snug in my sleeping bag, the rain pelting on the tent and some animal making a noise ouside, I rued my nocturnal fluid intake. I tried mind over matter, using Tai Chi techniques but eventually had to accept that I would have to get up, get dressed and go for a pee if I was going to get any sleep. At least the rain stopped for me. It was, however, a useful excursion. Not only did I significantly improve my level of comfort, but I also realised how little I could see without my glasses on.

fresh water

Two cartons of Oat so Simple, some dates and a cup of instant coffee was a smaller breakfast than the previous day but just as enjoyable. Then everything was stuffed back into rucksacks and we set off for Meall a’ Bhuachaille.

As on the previous day we each had stints at leading the group. Our first leader decided that we should start off with a bit of a run to warm up, an option that didn’t really appeal to me. So as everyone nodded I was the killjoy saying I would rather warm up gradually. So we mad our way along the track noticing and discussing land features and plants. There was some discussion as to whether we should head directly for Ryvoan Bothy (heathery bog) or take the path (firm but further). The decision was the direct route but on closer inspection we reverted to plan B.

We then took the path up the Corbett, stopping at times to practice finding our position using land features, slope aspect and bearings from distant features, and estimating the time it would take the group to reach particular points. This latter task was I think quite a clever variation on how long you yourself would take.

At the summit: group Lou

At the summit: group Pete (note different temperament)

After a break at the summit cairn we headed down following the path that leads to Allt Choire Chondlaich, with nice views of the snow topped Cairngorms and Loch Morlich, a kettle lake (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_(landform)).

Loch Morlich

There was a stop for a group photo and personal debriefs in the forest, then we returned to the cars, our log books were returned and we got into some dry clothes.

A select few had coffee and cakes at a nearby visitor centre then we went our separate ways, our ML training course finished.

I learned a great deal on the course. The course trainers were all excellent and the other trainees were a good bunch of folks. I’ve been pacing distances even going into work or walking the dogs and will be putting Flora Celtica on my Christmas list.

camoflage for the colour blind

 

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