Hearts and Heroes 2010

The sassenachs were fed freshly caught haggis and shortbread by the Wylies at the pre-walk team meeting. Then from what I can gather were tortured by electronic beeping to prevent a good night’s sleep.

An early morning start, 4.30am for me, 5am for lady wife. Porridge and toast respectively, coffee, then off to pick up Jim. I noticed Bailey prancing about in the drive but didn’t think to mention it since I presumed the dog stayed outside. Sorry Jim.

Completely out of character the Wylie car was at the Lochthorn rendezvous before us. Then off to Moffat for the team medical kit and Joanna (albino version).

At Tibbie Shiels we put on our kit and readied bladders. This year we were tagged for the walk and given yellow bracelets for our evening meal. Then we had some hanging about for the safety brief and morale boosting speech.

A bit of a slow start for several reasons. Queuing for the electronic tags to be scanned then along the South bank of St Mary’s Loch which in parts is single file. Some rain started to fall and stopping to put on waterproofs also slowed us a little, much more time queuing at the stiles to cross over towards Dryhope. Why couldn’t we use the gate?

The first rest stop was at Blackhouse with its ruins. Here we met the cosmopolitan oranges. I had some apple that had soaked up orange juice and must try that again. The grey skies gradually cleared as we walked on. Enough for me to regret not bringing the reactolites. I had gone for the “carry as little as possible” approach.

Walking towards the Bronze finish at Traquair we could hear the bagpipes. Change of socks, sandwich and drinks then ready for the next stage. The rain started and I felt obliged to recommend waterproofs for the team only to find the rain stopped in under five minutes.

I find the walk up Minch Moor the hardest part of the walk and did lag behind the group on the way up. But in my defence I did stop to take off my coat and therefore lost the impetus of being with the team. The photo above was taken at the top of Minchmoor Road at the point of resolution, the natural sculpture of ovals that look circular from that vantage point. It was not much further along, near the Cheese Well, that the Eildon Hills first came into view. I don’t remember seeing them last year and they are not easily missed so the visibility must have been better.

Over Little Minch Moor on the path to Hare Law I was confronted by a man who first congratulated me for getting so far then asked if I had passed urine since starting the walk. This was one of those occasions when the brain interprets the input and decides it must have misheard, but no, that was what he asked. Luckily I was not anuric. More cosmopolitan oranges and some high5 drink to keep us going. By now the clouds were receding and our shadows were clearly seen.

The walk over Brown Knowe and Broomy Law was easy going on good paths with excellent views and the Eildons getting closer. The Three Brethren came into view from Brown Knowe and did look to be far distant, but came gradually closer. The path up does look steep but once we got to it, it did not seem as bad. In fact by this time I had already realised that age is catching up with my knees and I prefer slight inclines to downhill sections. Poor Graeme was hoping for a portaloo at the top but was to be disappointed. We were told that there were just ten miles to go to the end and two to the silver finish, the latter all downhill. The stop allowed Joanna to tend Bobbi’s blisters, and the rest of the team to have a well earned rest.

Comparing our times to last year using the time stamps on last years photos I think we were 15 minutes slower between the start and Three Brethren and 25 minutes slower between the brethren and the end, possibly due to a longer stop at Yair Bridge. I didn’t feel we were dragging our feet and if anything I would have stopped longer at view points to take in the view. Who cares? We completed the challenge.

The Brethren to Yair Bridge took us down some paths steep enough to hurt toes and gave me pain at the medial joint lines of both knees. I think I’ll change my mind and call this the most unpleasant part of the walk. Pretty soon we were in Yair Forest on flatter paths and soon walking along the banks of the River Tweed towards Yair Bridge where we were met by the pipers again. It was a great idea to have pipers at the stops.

A well deserved rest at the silver stop (with portaloos), bathed in sunlight. Change of socks, more food, a little banter and rehydration.

Then the slog up Hog Hill and the Eildons are back in view. As we come over the hill Gala is there beneath us, another welcome water and orange stop. Just 5 miles left to go, and I think we were all feeling the miles in our legs and feet. Then along the banks of the Tweed. I was pleased to see that the cycle path still has its “Melrose 2¼ miles” signs ten minutes apart.

The final stretch along the Tweed brought a lift in spirits, but when Elaine and Andy decided to speed up to overtake walkers in front of us I didn’t have a sprint finish left in me. Jim, Joanna and I continued at our usual pace.

It was a great feeling to cross the finish line, and see the rest of the team finish. Everyone was smiling as they did, which must be a good sign.

The post walk party saw David tricking all and sundry with his magic pipe. Plentiful food, drink and dancing.

I hope I’ve remembered everything. Well done David, Elaine, Joanna, Andy, Jim, Bobbi, Gary, Topsy, and Verity.

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Mabie – wild cyclists

Our last walk before the big one. I am beginning to believe I could walk this path with my eyes closed, but I’d probably twist an ankle trying it. We need to find an alternative default walk and leave Mabie fallow for a few months perhaps.

There was obviously a cycle competition of some sort but the bikes did ride past us a little faster than was safe given that there were dogs about (and walkers do sometimes not look where they are going). If we were walking on a cycle path we would stand off it for bikes; could they not slow a little when passing walkers on a walking path? I can feel myself metamorphosing into an old fart. When I start writing letters to the Standard I’ll know the change is complete.

And the final humiliation of not being able to get into the Shed for coffee was converted into a victory by detouring to the (award winning) Tea Room in New Abbey.

7.2 miles 2 hours

I’m looking forward to next week’s walk and have sliced it into bitesized chunks for psychological consumption. My only remaining decision is wether to take the poles. Is carrying them all that way worth it for the uphill and downhill sections where I would use them?

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Downhill from Black Hill

From Dunreggan car park, we set off full of energy, carrying our supplies across the bridge to Moniaive, in the morning sunshine. Then through the town we walk past a choclatier, several public houses, restaurants, the market cross, bistros and the church-like schoolmaster’s house. Finally we take the last turning in Moniaive, where Paterson’s famous painting is set.

Then there is a gentle climb along the Benbuie road with Dalwhat water on our right until we cross the Dalwhat bridge still bright eyed and bushy tailed with 20 miles yet to go. It is then a gentle climb up the Dalwhat Glen, into the Cairnhead Community Forest, with sheep (with sticky up ears), an old small quarry and a couple of unusual carved seats on the way.

Paterson's Last Turning in Moniaive

Our first refreshment stop was at the Byre arch, sitting on the carved stone slabs. The Bail Hill arch could be seen from here. Next, up the glen to Black Hill and join the SUW. From Black hill the views were extensive. We could see the distant Galloway and Lowther Hills and the closer Wether hill wind turbines. The remaining 14 miles were, happily, all downhill.

The SUW was slightly boggy here, as it was to be in may other areas; enough to slow us a little, but I certainly came through it with dry feet. Strangely the downhill section up to the top of Benbrack made me feel as if I was walking uphill. I can only presume this was some kind of optical illusion. It did seem to affect the entire group so it wasn’t just in my mind. I’ll check out the internet to see if I can find an explanation.

Sandwiches were taken around the Benbrack arch, with the Colt hill arch visible on the horizon. The temperature here dropped to hats and glove level, though that may have had more to do with us being stationary rather than a change in the weather. Rather strangely the men and women sat in separate groups for their refreshments.

Our first steep descent, unpleasant for knees and toes, took us down to Craigencarse with a couple of stagnant ponds for Oscar to jump into. Then more “downhill” to the top on Manquill Hill and on to Stroanfeggan, with the legendary black hut, and a brief respite from soft paths.

Somewhere around Culmark Hill we stopped for a breather by an SUW post. There a strange change came over the group. That post must have been cursed. From there the ground became boggier, toes and knees hurt more, there were bulls in fields, and numerous minor hilltops grew between us and Dalry. Otherwise it would have been all downhill. We all entered the “we-must-be-there-by-now” frame of mind. I even took a picture of the first house we came across in Dalry only to find we were still half an hour away. Luckily the loss of J, D and O was circumvented by mobile phone communications, and a lone rescue sortie by David.

I had thought we would be able to see Dalry from a couple of miles away, whereas the first we saw of it was as we walked into the town. This made it seem as though there were still miles yet to go. Throughout the walk though we had good weather, and when the rain did come we were already in Dalry and the Cavalry (Mags and co.) arrived before we could get wet.

The apres-walk cola was, as I said at the time, wonderful and the meal even better. I hang my head in shame however at being a foodie lightweight, unable to manage crumble and custard after my soup and steak pie. More training required in that area.

23.1 miles     681m ascent     8h 10min

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Perfidious Forecasters

20.45 miles 6h 20m 380m ascent

Pushing the miles in preparation for the big day we walked from Crocketford up to Speddoch and back via Shawhead.

The weather forecast was dry with a possibility of a light shower and I believed it, fool that I was. Having decided that I tend to take too much stuff in my rucksack I decided to take out the fleece I never wear and the waterproof jacket that makes me sweat. I couldn’t find my waterproof trousers (later found hiding in plain sight). But all that foolishness was not enough. I ditched the long sleeved base layer for a tee-shirt and wore summer trousers (not water resistant). Some part of my brain must have retained some function though since I decided against shorts and stuffed a windproof in the bag. At least I took food, water, map, spare socks, hat and a tenner.

Admittedly I was little cold at first but soon warmed up. About a mile along the A712 we came across this castle like frontage (see above). I presume this is a folly, and the house across the road looks to have the same style. Further along at the Bogle Bridge we turned up the lane towards Glenkiln. This is gently uphill for 4 miles or so, and we stopped for jelly babies at the reclining figures.

There were many lambs of varying ages in the fields, a black swan in the reservoir and a buzzard in the air. The road was very quiet with few cars.

As we walked around the eastern side of Bishop Forest Hill the weather stayed pleasant with the gentle hills bathed in sunlight. A little way before Speddoch we stopped for sandwiches and found a sheep skull lying in the grass. As we left the rain arrived, briefly heavy then lighter. The rocks and water at the Routin Bridge were begging to be photographed but the rain kept my camera out of sight. It looks like a place to return to on a better day. We had a brief respite from rain for long enough for me to dry out.

The first 16 miles of this walk I enjoyed but once the rain set in again at Shawhead and the windproof started to fail as a waterproof it was a different story. When it’s raining I find myself looking at the ground in front of me rather than the countryside so the walk becomes a bit of a chore.

But the distance and time were very good despite the weather.

I have learnt my lesson: take waterproofs no matter what the forecast says.

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Turner’s Monument and Glenkiln Cross

The plan was to climb up to Turner’s Monument on Bennan Hill and I am pleased I chose to go from the south rather than east. I parked at the copse just past the pink farm (Glen Farm) and climbed up through two gates. The ground here was easy going, dry and not too steep.

The sheep on the hill just watched me walk past, occasionally moving a little further out of my way. On the way up I saw a flick of a tail disappearing into the grass and the movement looked very much like a lizard. The tail was too long for a mouse so I can only presume it was a snake. I saw another a few minutes later. PS I’ve subsequently heard that there are lots of adders in the area.

Turner’s monument wasn’t visible until about 50m below it, so I did begin to wonder if I was going the right way. The monument is pretty impressive in size when you think that Johnny Turner had to lug the stones for it all the way up there. The views are impressive, with the Lake District, Galloway hills, Lowther hills and Moffat hills visible.

I decided to head north east over towards the Glenkiln cross, which would have been my alternative way up. There is no clear path, though at times there are paths made by the sheep. The direct route took me into heather and tussocks with hidden holes into which my feet went on occasion (water in them). So I decided to head south to a wall and follow that eastwards. The ground was boggy and even where it appeared dry water could be heard running underfoot. I tried switching sides of the wall but I doubt it made much difference. The wall took me most of the way but then I veered off north to get to the top of a brew overlooking Glenkiln reservoir because I was keen to avoid having to climb back up to the Cross. The weather was great for photos.

The plan had been to drop down to the road and follow it back to the car but there seemed to be a path running across to the path that passes the visitation, so I went that way. As I crossed a small burn a vole ran in front of me and froze long enough for me to get a quick photo. From the Visitation the path climbed back to join the road back to Glen Farm. Here in a field filled with lambs and ewes was a sheep sat with a duck.

And finally, as I walked back to the car another red squirrel ran across the path.

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Crocketford Round

Beasts! Red squirrels, red kites, foxes, deer, rabbits, greylag geese, lambs, calfs, pheasants, sculptures, topiary and views.

16.5 miles in a figure of eight. Cold enough for hats some of the time but thankfully dry. We began at Crocketford, initially going up the Shawhead road but turning along a farm track passing Larghill farm. Here we encountered, or were spared from encountering THE BEASTS ! Then on to the road to Glenkiln, with the Turner monument high on our left most of the way and the first of many pink farmhouses.

We paused for a comfort break at Moore’s reclining figures then on for a photo opportunity at the topiary bird. Could it be a green finch? I am no good identifying birds but I’m told the bird of prey hovering here was a red kite.

Just past the beware red squirrel sign we saw a red squirrel dart across the road. Then we walked along the reservoir with greylag geese (these I do know), more pink farms, several Henry Moore sculptures (king and queen, Glenkiln cross, standing figure), and Rodin’s John the Baptist.

The road forks after the last sculpture and we went left past Shalloch farm with the discarded ammunition box and bullet pocked sign. Two deer ran across our path but I was too slow with the camera though one has been caught as a brown blur. The woodland beyond here had been recently cleared leaving a “post-nuclear attack” appearance with the odd forlorn stripped tree trunk left standing for birds of prey. The woodstacks were very high. No climbing! Andy spotted a fox further along the path as we continued on down.

The snow topped Galloway hills were visible as we began to descend towards Lochenkit Farm (pink). Here I couldn’t see the path short of the farm so we walked past the farm before turning left. This was the one place where a herd of cows stood in our way, but they moved from the gate as we approached. I’m glad we didn’t have dogs with us.

This section was a pleasant walk coming quite close to the Turner monument. The stream we forded was not particularly full but I wouldn’t have fancied crossing it during the recent wet weather.

We then dropped back down to cross the Glenkiln road and had an unexpected climb over to Nethertown (pink). Then our walk took us back to Crocketford, with several rabbits seen along the way, to recover at The Galloway Arms.

16.5 miles 5h 5mins Ascent 434m

PS the GPS batteries ran out at 12 miles, up until then our mile paces were:

The 9 and 10 mile paces probably include our 15 minute lunch stop. We did the remaining miles at about 16mins/mile. Looks pretty fast to me.

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Glenkiln

A short walk with the dogs on leads because of sheep. Lynn came along and helped taking pictures and holding leads. We took a short cut down from the visitation statue which meant we had to cross a burn twice and negotiate a barbed wire fence. We saw a large bird of prey which I couldn’t catch on camera and a few greylag geese. Also a large topiary bird.

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Derwentwater

What a start to the day. A full cooked breakfast and plenty of coffee (oh, and of course, good company). The weather had that special teasing quality, with enough light rain to make us don waterproofs, wear them all day and yet not really need them. I agree with Elaine that had we taken them off, the heavens would have opened.

This was our low level walk. “Yippee” cried my thighs. About half an hour in we met some returning walkers who told us that the path ahead was flooded. But undaunted we pressed on and despite the inch of water made our way through. The high water mark showed that much of the paths here had been under water recently.

Just after this we came across a Robin (bird not three wheel car) which was close enough for some pics. Admittedly our group were not unanimous in its identification. (see pics to see for yourself).

The one part of this route that was a little tricky due to slippy rocks was busy with a group of oriental teenagers wearing white trainers (some with heels). Mind you they probably looked at us and wondered why we were all geared up when walking a lakeside path.

Then elevenses at a hotel whose name I forget (Mary Mount Hotel?) . Their sign said walkers welcome but it looked so clean and posh, David had to do a reccy before we went inside. Coffee/Tea and biscuits and a very warm bar-room. After that, past the Lodore falls and across a series of walkways across the southern end of Derwentwater and into woodland as we turned to walk along the western shore. Most of this was signed as the Allerdale way.

This section was like the paths around Loch Trool. We then came onto busier paths and met many more walkers. There was even an large group of folk eating their sandwiches under trees and umbrellas. Then we were onto roads. The footbridge across from Portinscale was closed, presumably damaged in the recent floods so we had a minor detour to cross on the road bridge. Having left the cover of woods and being on the open riverbank this might not seem the ideal place for a pee. (Just saying.)

Eventually we were back in Keswick, passing the pencil museum. Perhaps the presence of ducks in the car park was the clue as to how wet the weather had been.

Finally Fish, chips and mushy peas at the Old Keswickian.

Mike’s homework will be learning to differentiate giraffes and cows.

9 miles 3h 55 mins ascent 214m

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