7.4 miles 3h 288m ascent
Along the SUW west from Sanquhar
A few more miles of SUW. I decided to start from Sanquhar and walk out along the SUW far enough to look down the Scaur valley then head back along Euchan Water.
I parked close to Sanquhar Castle and stood by the car, in multiple layered walking gear, woolly hat and gloves, gazing at the ruins through my condensing breath. As I did, two young girls (probably aged 12 or so) walked past in pyjamas and dressing gowns. They make ’em tough in Nithsdale.
Sanquhar Castle
Judging by the extent of the earthworks this must once have been an imposing castle. Now it is a sad sight. The castle, built by the Crichton’s in the 1400s, is now a true ruin and as such looks much more forlorn than “managed” ruins like Sweetheart Abbey with their mown lawns and pruned trees. There is a sign by the road indicating the “easier” path but I’m hard-core so I went through a kissing gate to what I presumed was the n0n-easy path. This goes over an embankment, across what may have been a moat, and then close by the ruins then down to a couple of gates and across a muddy waterlogged area which is presumably the difficult bit.
Mantua Stone
The “difficult” path then turns right and rejoins the easy path after 250m or so. The path heads towards the River Nith at a wall, marked as the Deer Dyke on the OS map. There is a giant kissing gate here, big enough for a horses. Just beyond the dyke are a couple of benches overlooking the river and a large sandstone rock with “Mantua France” carved on it. My research about the rock has not found a definite explanation for it. I can only presume it is somehow related to the Admirable Crichton, born close by at Eliock House (1560) and murdered in Mantua (1582).
The SUW follows the Nith, passing a children’s playground and then some partially derelict industrial buildings that resemble something from the 1970s. The surrounding hills, including Lowther with its radar ball were covered in snow warning me of what was to come once the SUW climbed. The route crosses the Nith at Blackaddie Bridge, then turns south to cross Euchan bridge. A field here had a pair of birds circling. I couldn’t identify them while in the air but once they landed it was obvious they were herons. the first time I have seen herons standing in a field.
I then followed the SUW, which passed through Ulzieside Farm where chickens seem to have taken over the farmyard, but later had to make a detour because I couldn’t get the dogs over stiles. As is often the case, in straying from the beaten track the terrain got worse. Firm ground gave way to boggy, then flooded fields. Gates in particular tended to guard standing water. One dog was a bit unhappy about going through water whereas the other happily splashed crap all over me. I found I had strayed back to Euchan water just beyond Cairnhill so I headed south by the side of Ulzieside Plantation.
The fences here are electrified, or so the signs say, and several gates had been tied shut by someone practicing for the Gordian Knot tying contest. Unlike Alexander I was without a blade. Eventually I found a gate to get the dogs through and headed up on the now snow covered slopes. Up ahead I spotted a post. I hoped it would be an SUW way marker and indeed it was.
Scaur Hills from SUW
The path of the SUW was lost beneath the snow but as I reached each post the next was in view. The terrain was waterlogged and frozen but with ice thin enough to allow feet to occasionally crunch through to the cold water. Several small streams draining into Whing Burn cross the route and add to the excitement. As I climbed further the snow became heavier and the visibility worse so my views of the Scaur valley were poor. I decided to call it a day about half a mile short of Cloud Hill since it was clear that the only views were going to be white.
On the way back I followed the SUW which seemed easier heading back. I had to manhandle the dogs over one steep stile but otherwise the return leg was uneventful.
